There are of course many reasons for owners to want a calm, obedient and faithful dog. For one thing, obedient and trained dogs are happier dogs, less likely to get into tussles with people or with other dogs. Another reason is that many communities require that the dogs living in their neighborhoods be well trained. This is especially true for many breeds thought to have aggression and behavior problems - dog breeds like pit bulls and rottweilers for instance.
And of course, training your dog well will also make he or she a much better family companion, especially in households where there are young children. Many studies have shown that proper dog training makes a big impact when it comes to cutting down the number of dog bits and other behavior problems encountered by dog owning households.
When considering training your own dog, or having someone else help you train it, there are certain basic commands that must be mastered in order for a dog to be considered truly trained. These basic commands include:
* Heel - it is important that any dog learn to walk beside its owner on a loose lead, neither pulling ahead nor lagging behind.
* Respond to the word No - the word no is one word that all dogs must learn. Training your dog to respond to this important word can save you a ton of trouble.
* Sit - Training your dog to sit on command is a vital part of any dog training program.
* Stay - A well trained dog should remain where his or her owner commands, so stay is a very important command in dog training.
* Down - Lying down on command is more than just a cute trick; it is a key component of any successful dog training program.
Dog training does much more than just create an obedient, willing companion. Training your dog properly actually strengthens the bond that already exists between dog and handler. Dogs are pack animals, and they look to their pack leader to tell them what to do. The key to successful dog training is to set yourself up as that pack leader.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
What to do when a foreign object gets inside your dog’s body
With their combination of scavenging habits and inquisitive nature, most dogs, at one time or another, will be likely to have a foreign object embedded in their skin. Sharp objects such as glass, needles, thorns, as well as plant seeds, are the most common culprits that can be embedded in their skin. These items often enter the eyes, nose, ears, skin, vulva, and particularly the area between their toes. For this reason, always examine your dog’s coat and skin for any sign of foreign bodies after taking him out for walks.
Signs that your dog has a foreign body embedded in his skin are when he shakes his head, paws at the wound, sneezes, or when he licks at the wound vigorously. His body will try to get rid of the object by creating a local bursting abscess, although objects such as grass seeds can sometimes travel throughout the body.
Check your dog’s ears and body for plant seeds after taking him for a walk, especially during dry weather. When a foreign body accidentally enters his ear, you can easily remove it using tweezers. If you notice that your dog is shaking his head, this may be because the seed is lodged deeper inside of the ear canal.
In this case, you will need to take him to the vet. In the meantime, to relieve your dog’s discomfort temporarily, you may fill the affected ear with mineral oil or olive oil. Filling up the ear with oil will help float the seed up for easy removal.
If you notice that your dog is pawing at his eye or vigorously rubbing his head on the ground, hold open his eyelid and check for grit or grass seeds. Try floating out foreign body in the eye using eye drops or olive oil. If the foreign object has penetrated the eyeball, do not try to remove it and take your dog to the vet as soon as you can.
Sharp objects, such as needles, thorns, and shards of glass can enter your dog’s paw pads, and grass seeds can enter the webs of skin between his toes. If you notice your dog limping, check his paw and remove any visible object using tweezers. However, if the object cannot be seen, bathe the foot several times daily with salt water until the object becomes visible and can be easily removed.
Signs that your dog has a foreign body embedded in his skin are when he shakes his head, paws at the wound, sneezes, or when he licks at the wound vigorously. His body will try to get rid of the object by creating a local bursting abscess, although objects such as grass seeds can sometimes travel throughout the body.
Check your dog’s ears and body for plant seeds after taking him for a walk, especially during dry weather. When a foreign body accidentally enters his ear, you can easily remove it using tweezers. If you notice that your dog is shaking his head, this may be because the seed is lodged deeper inside of the ear canal.
In this case, you will need to take him to the vet. In the meantime, to relieve your dog’s discomfort temporarily, you may fill the affected ear with mineral oil or olive oil. Filling up the ear with oil will help float the seed up for easy removal.
If you notice that your dog is pawing at his eye or vigorously rubbing his head on the ground, hold open his eyelid and check for grit or grass seeds. Try floating out foreign body in the eye using eye drops or olive oil. If the foreign object has penetrated the eyeball, do not try to remove it and take your dog to the vet as soon as you can.
Sharp objects, such as needles, thorns, and shards of glass can enter your dog’s paw pads, and grass seeds can enter the webs of skin between his toes. If you notice your dog limping, check his paw and remove any visible object using tweezers. However, if the object cannot be seen, bathe the foot several times daily with salt water until the object becomes visible and can be easily removed.
5 Ways To Reduce That Smelly Dog Odor In The House
No matter how often our dogs wash themselves or we wash them, sometimes just having a dog in the house can leave a smell. Long after the stain is lifted, dog odors can linger. Follow some of these suggestions to keep from being entrenched in stench.
1. Bathing your dog regularly will help cut down dog odors. If it's too cold to bathe him, use a dry shampoo or massage some baking soda into your dog's coat and brush it out to remove odors.
2. Purchase an electronic air-cleaning system designed to remove dog odors from the air.
3. Make your own carpet freshener by combining one box of baking soda with one tablespoon of orris root (available in herb stores) that has been saturated in your favorite scented oil. Place the mixture in a glass jar and cover with a metal lid in which you've punched holes. Let it sit for a few days so that the baking soda picks up the oil scent then sprinkle it onto the carpet before vacuuming.
4. Use a window fan set on exhaust to make odor elimination a breeze.
5. Odors and stains from feces or urine are protein-based and require an odor neutralizer containing bacterial enzymes to completely eliminate them. Purchase enzyme products at dis- count department stores, health stores, or pet stores.
1. Bathing your dog regularly will help cut down dog odors. If it's too cold to bathe him, use a dry shampoo or massage some baking soda into your dog's coat and brush it out to remove odors.
2. Purchase an electronic air-cleaning system designed to remove dog odors from the air.
3. Make your own carpet freshener by combining one box of baking soda with one tablespoon of orris root (available in herb stores) that has been saturated in your favorite scented oil. Place the mixture in a glass jar and cover with a metal lid in which you've punched holes. Let it sit for a few days so that the baking soda picks up the oil scent then sprinkle it onto the carpet before vacuuming.
4. Use a window fan set on exhaust to make odor elimination a breeze.
5. Odors and stains from feces or urine are protein-based and require an odor neutralizer containing bacterial enzymes to completely eliminate them. Purchase enzyme products at dis- count department stores, health stores, or pet stores.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
How to Fight Flea Infestation in Your Dog
The natural way:
The natural way of treating fleas is effective only if the level of flea infestation is average to very few. This method usually is recommended for prevention only.
Different commercially available products with chemical contents:
Advantage. Active ingredient is imidacloprid. This is a flea poison, from Bayer. It is in a liquid form and applied to the skin, at the back of the dog, and works for about a month. This works by upsetting the nervous system of fleas when they come in contact with the liquid. This product is fast acting and is not absorbed into the internal organs and bloodstream of the dog.
Studies indicate that this product is highly toxic to fleas and other insects as well. A dog will be free from fleas in just a couple of days.
Ingredients are: imidacloprid -- a chloronicotinyl nitroguanidine integrated from the nitromethylene class of a compound. This joins the nicotinyl receptor sites of insects, thus upsetting normal nerve transmission which causes death.
A set of two vials costs 15-20 dollars.
Frontline. This product is very similar to Advantage, but is not water soluble, so alcohol is needed to wash it off. This can safely be used in pups, dogs, cats and kittens.
- Vacuum your home frequently and seal vacuum bags before disposing.
- Wash the bedding of your dog weekly in warm soapy water. This is where fleas usually breed.
- Bathing your pet weekly with a mild dog shampoo prevents flea invasion.
- Use cedar shampoo for your dog, and put cedar oil in their sleeping mats. Cedar will repel fleas and other insects.Fleas are attracted to dry skin, so to avoid it, give your dog Linatone oil mixed with its food. Excessive shampooing should be avoided.
- A mixture of brewer’s yeast and garlic, available in powder or tablet form can be given in small doses to your pet. This creates a certain odor in pets, and fleas are surely to avoid them.
- Fresh or dried pennyroyal leaves is a natural flea repellent. Use this in carpets to avoid the abundance of fleas in the home. Do not use it if you have small children around, as this could be toxic.
- A mixture of 60 ml of lavender oil with 2.8 liters of rock salt can also be placed in areas where dogs usually come in contact with and this solution could also be used to wash your dog.
- Planting marigolds in the yard is helpful too, it repels certain types of bugs as well as fleas.
- Boiled lemon or orange peel in water can be used as a dip for dogs and can be used too to soak in dog bedding for a few hours, then washed with warm soapy water.
- Lukewarm water with little shampoo and detergent is a good way to prevent fleas. A dog’s body may be dipped into the solution for fifteen minutes and then rinsed. This only works if flea infestation is light.
The natural way of treating fleas is effective only if the level of flea infestation is average to very few. This method usually is recommended for prevention only.
Different commercially available products with chemical contents:
Advantage. Active ingredient is imidacloprid. This is a flea poison, from Bayer. It is in a liquid form and applied to the skin, at the back of the dog, and works for about a month. This works by upsetting the nervous system of fleas when they come in contact with the liquid. This product is fast acting and is not absorbed into the internal organs and bloodstream of the dog.
Studies indicate that this product is highly toxic to fleas and other insects as well. A dog will be free from fleas in just a couple of days.
Ingredients are: imidacloprid -- a chloronicotinyl nitroguanidine integrated from the nitromethylene class of a compound. This joins the nicotinyl receptor sites of insects, thus upsetting normal nerve transmission which causes death.
A set of two vials costs 15-20 dollars.
Frontline. This product is very similar to Advantage, but is not water soluble, so alcohol is needed to wash it off. This can safely be used in pups, dogs, cats and kittens.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
Two Ways to Administer Liquid Medication to Your Dog
There are 2 effective methods for getting any form of liquid medication down your dog’s throat: Make a pouch or pry the mouth open.
1. Making a pouch: Using one hand, pull out the corner of the dog’s lower lip to make a little pouch. Keep his head slightly tilted back and pour the liquid into the mouth using your other hand.
In some instances, the medication does not go in right away. This occurs when the dog’s teeth are clenched too tightly. When this happens, gently pry his mouth open using your fingers. If the dog tries to move away, position his rear end in a corner so he will not be able to back away from you. You can also get another person to help you hold the dog during the process.
Another way of doing this method is to sit on the floor or a bed with the dog between your legs. Position his rear end toward you with his head facing away. This way, you can keep him positioned more easily. As soon as you have the liquid medicine in, induce swallowing by carefully and gently holding the dog’s mouth almost closed and lightly massage his throat. You can tell that he has swallowed the medication when his tongue emerges briefly from between the front teeth. You can also make him swallow the liquid by briefly and gently putting your thumb over his nostrils.
2. Prying the mouth open: Gently grasp the dog’s upper jaw using one hand and insert your thumb and fingers in the gaps just behind the fangs. For a tiny dog, just one finger is necessary along with the thumb. Most dogs will then relax their mouths a little so that you can easily pour the liquid with a dropper or a spoon between his front teeth. Make sure that his head is tilted back so that the liquid does not run down his throat.
How to administer capsules and pills
When giving a dog solid medication such as capsules or vitamin pills, open his mouth by grasping around his upper jaw, just like what you would do for liquid medications. Hold the capsule or pill either between your thumb and the first finger or between the first and second fingers. Use the remaining fingers to press down the lower front teeth to pry the jaw open.
Once you have managed to open his mouth, put the medication into the throat and push it as far back as you can. Induce swallowing the same as you would when giving liquid medication. This method may seem awkward and difficult at first. But after a few tries, you will get more experienced and find it much easier and effortless.
1. Making a pouch: Using one hand, pull out the corner of the dog’s lower lip to make a little pouch. Keep his head slightly tilted back and pour the liquid into the mouth using your other hand.
In some instances, the medication does not go in right away. This occurs when the dog’s teeth are clenched too tightly. When this happens, gently pry his mouth open using your fingers. If the dog tries to move away, position his rear end in a corner so he will not be able to back away from you. You can also get another person to help you hold the dog during the process.
Another way of doing this method is to sit on the floor or a bed with the dog between your legs. Position his rear end toward you with his head facing away. This way, you can keep him positioned more easily. As soon as you have the liquid medicine in, induce swallowing by carefully and gently holding the dog’s mouth almost closed and lightly massage his throat. You can tell that he has swallowed the medication when his tongue emerges briefly from between the front teeth. You can also make him swallow the liquid by briefly and gently putting your thumb over his nostrils.
2. Prying the mouth open: Gently grasp the dog’s upper jaw using one hand and insert your thumb and fingers in the gaps just behind the fangs. For a tiny dog, just one finger is necessary along with the thumb. Most dogs will then relax their mouths a little so that you can easily pour the liquid with a dropper or a spoon between his front teeth. Make sure that his head is tilted back so that the liquid does not run down his throat.
How to administer capsules and pills
When giving a dog solid medication such as capsules or vitamin pills, open his mouth by grasping around his upper jaw, just like what you would do for liquid medications. Hold the capsule or pill either between your thumb and the first finger or between the first and second fingers. Use the remaining fingers to press down the lower front teeth to pry the jaw open.
Once you have managed to open his mouth, put the medication into the throat and push it as far back as you can. Induce swallowing the same as you would when giving liquid medication. This method may seem awkward and difficult at first. But after a few tries, you will get more experienced and find it much easier and effortless.
Friday, May 18, 2007
The Danger Of A Jealous Dog
In the case of jealousy the mind of a dog works in almost an identical way to that of a human being. It wants the full attention and love of its owner whether the jealousy occurs only when another dog enters the home or when the beloved owner talks to another dog outside, or whether the jealousy is aimed at another person in the home. The same driving force is at the root of the evil in all of these cases: the intention of the dog to reign alone and supreme in his household.
The guarding instinct so prevalent in some breeds has its roots in the same sort of thing; a desire to let no one enter the precincts of his master or mistress. Jealousy nearly always takes the form of a show of viciousness toward the dog or person the animal is jealous of. Quite often it is a mild form of jealousy and only involves its bone, toy or the piece of rug that it is fond of. It jealously guards them and woe betide anyone trying to take that object away.
This jealousy is particularly pronounced when puppies are reared and kept in the household. As the puppy reaches the age of about three months the mother will begin to feel jealous as her maternal instinct fades and the time draws near for another heat. In spite of the attempt to treat both dogs equally and always to talk to both at the same time, feeding both at the same time and exercising both together, the jealousy continues to grow.
Correction works at first and then bit by bit grows less effective. In the dog's mind a usurper has entered the scene, and, as in the wild state, it is trying to turn the young out of the nest. As she fails to get rid of the now grown up pup, her temper gets worse and worse in the effort to dislodge the now adult and unwanted member of the household. She becomes more and more thwarted as her owner attempts to make the newcomer as welcome as the old established member. Often she will turn on her owner when he is trying to make peace, as if she were trying to impress an ignorant person that it was time the youngster went out into the world to fend for itself.
If you are a really good handler your training methods will be good enough to make both dogs obey the command "Leave" when they are in your presence. The danger lies in the times you leave the dogs together on their own, for the slightest boldness on the part of the youngster in approaching the older one's basket or toy, etc., will infuriate the older dog, and she will set on the youngster tooth and nail.
The guarding instinct so prevalent in some breeds has its roots in the same sort of thing; a desire to let no one enter the precincts of his master or mistress. Jealousy nearly always takes the form of a show of viciousness toward the dog or person the animal is jealous of. Quite often it is a mild form of jealousy and only involves its bone, toy or the piece of rug that it is fond of. It jealously guards them and woe betide anyone trying to take that object away.
This jealousy is particularly pronounced when puppies are reared and kept in the household. As the puppy reaches the age of about three months the mother will begin to feel jealous as her maternal instinct fades and the time draws near for another heat. In spite of the attempt to treat both dogs equally and always to talk to both at the same time, feeding both at the same time and exercising both together, the jealousy continues to grow.
Correction works at first and then bit by bit grows less effective. In the dog's mind a usurper has entered the scene, and, as in the wild state, it is trying to turn the young out of the nest. As she fails to get rid of the now grown up pup, her temper gets worse and worse in the effort to dislodge the now adult and unwanted member of the household. She becomes more and more thwarted as her owner attempts to make the newcomer as welcome as the old established member. Often she will turn on her owner when he is trying to make peace, as if she were trying to impress an ignorant person that it was time the youngster went out into the world to fend for itself.
If you are a really good handler your training methods will be good enough to make both dogs obey the command "Leave" when they are in your presence. The danger lies in the times you leave the dogs together on their own, for the slightest boldness on the part of the youngster in approaching the older one's basket or toy, etc., will infuriate the older dog, and she will set on the youngster tooth and nail.
Sunday, May 13, 2007
Dog Supplements May Not Be Necessary After All
If you use a good quality meat-meal based food you usually do not have to supplement your dog's ration. In fact, it is very easy to throw the formulation of some of the specialty foods out of kilter if you play with supplements. Unfortunately, adding a little bit of this and a little bit of that is a cultural mentality handed down from the time when pet foods weren't complete and needed supplementation. Breeders often advocate supplements and many send their clients home with long lists of additives - vitamins, minerals, dairy products, oils and other lotions and potions. Many breeders will turn an absolutely deaf ear to entreaties from veterinarians or canine nutritionists who suggest a good basic ration and a minimum of supplementation.
Supplement supporters aren't usually thinking along behavioral lines and, since they themselves rarely have difficulty house-training their dogs, don't realize that not everyone is so knowledgeable and over-supplementation can easily produce loose stools and make good control difficult for the dog. Coat conditioners, for instance, can easily be withheld from the diet until the puppy is house-trained. The puppy doesn't need them if he or she is eating a good quality food, and (in most breeds) the puppy coat has to grow out naturally anyway. Oils and people foods, especially those high in fat (like steak trimmings) easily "oil up" the intestines and in many cases cause stools to "slide out" quite unexpectedly.
If your breeder or pet store operator gives you a list of supplements and binds you under pain of mortal sin to use them, start asking some questions. Ask whether these supplements are necessary if you use a high-quality specialty food. Ask how these supplements will affect your house-training progress. Ask if it is absolutely necessary to add the supplements right away or if this can wait until house-training is accomplished. For instance, although the jury is definitely out on the relationship between mega doses of vitamin C and hip dysplasia (a congenital ailment that plagues many larger breeds), many breeders are routinely recommending giving the vitamin. Whether or not the vitamin helps ward off hip dysplasia, we do know that it can have a diarrheaic effect on many dogs, complicating the house-training process.
Dairy products are also dangerous additives and produce runny stools in some dogs. People food should be avoided as a matter of good behavioral policy, lest the dog turn to begging at the table, but it should be especially taboo during house-training. Dog treats that are full of preservatives or dyes (often to keep a "meat center" bright red) can also throw many dogs' innards for a loop and complicate cleanliness. Good general advice is to stay away from supplements during the house-training process and use only minimal or no additives later on, but do use a quality daily ration.
Supplement supporters aren't usually thinking along behavioral lines and, since they themselves rarely have difficulty house-training their dogs, don't realize that not everyone is so knowledgeable and over-supplementation can easily produce loose stools and make good control difficult for the dog. Coat conditioners, for instance, can easily be withheld from the diet until the puppy is house-trained. The puppy doesn't need them if he or she is eating a good quality food, and (in most breeds) the puppy coat has to grow out naturally anyway. Oils and people foods, especially those high in fat (like steak trimmings) easily "oil up" the intestines and in many cases cause stools to "slide out" quite unexpectedly.
If your breeder or pet store operator gives you a list of supplements and binds you under pain of mortal sin to use them, start asking some questions. Ask whether these supplements are necessary if you use a high-quality specialty food. Ask how these supplements will affect your house-training progress. Ask if it is absolutely necessary to add the supplements right away or if this can wait until house-training is accomplished. For instance, although the jury is definitely out on the relationship between mega doses of vitamin C and hip dysplasia (a congenital ailment that plagues many larger breeds), many breeders are routinely recommending giving the vitamin. Whether or not the vitamin helps ward off hip dysplasia, we do know that it can have a diarrheaic effect on many dogs, complicating the house-training process.
Dairy products are also dangerous additives and produce runny stools in some dogs. People food should be avoided as a matter of good behavioral policy, lest the dog turn to begging at the table, but it should be especially taboo during house-training. Dog treats that are full of preservatives or dyes (often to keep a "meat center" bright red) can also throw many dogs' innards for a loop and complicate cleanliness. Good general advice is to stay away from supplements during the house-training process and use only minimal or no additives later on, but do use a quality daily ration.
Death Of Your Dog: Know What To Expect
There are certain things concerning death with which every dog owner should be acquainted. Many practical considerations must be evaluated and alternatives discussed with your mate, simply as part of owning a dog. Death should not be scratching at your door before you begin to ponder reasonable alternatives in dealing with the eventuality of your dog's death.
Death is not to be feared nor to be looked upon as repulsive. Dogs that die simply go to sleep permanently. They look, to the average person, as if they are simply asleep. Death does not turn your dog into a hideous caricature. Your beautiful dog does not begin to decompose before your eyes, nor does he immediately discharge a repulsive odor. So you should have no fear in sharing this experience with the children if your dog dies in the house.
Many older dogs die in their sleep, at night, when the body is at its lowest ebb. In such cases, you may just wake up in the morning and find him peacefully asleep without heartbeat or movement in his chest. His eyes may be closed or they may be open. If they are open, you will observe a glassiness or glaze to the eyeball. You will be able to tap the surface of the eye gently without receiving any response. That is one very accurate way of telling if death has come. Should you elicit no response, no blinking, no movement in the eyeball, then, for his sense of dignity, close the eyes. You can lift up his jowls and examine the gums. If they are white and lifeless, the blood has ceased pumping vital oxygen throughout his body. You can also examine the chest for movement and for heartbeat.
When a dog is asleep, you can always notice some lung expansion as he inhales and exhales rhythmically. When he has ceased to breathe, there will be no heartbeat and no chest expansion. Certain muscles may twitch slightly, even after death, but this is only the remnants of electrical energy reacting in his muscles and nerve complexes and, unfortunately not a sign that he is still alive. It may seem to you slightly indelicate in your extremely distraught state, to be required to check your dog's vital life signs, such as the eyes, gums, chest, and heartbeat. But, if you do this and find that your dog is still alive, you will be saving precious time. Upon contacting your vet immediately, you will also make it easier for him to tell you what to do. You may have a chance to save the dog's life.
When animals (or humans) die, they lose control of their excretory functions. This is another sign of death, although animals under anesthesia can also display loss of control of excretory functions. Should you come upon your dog in the morning and, having established that he is dead, notice that he has urinated and defecated involuntarily during the night, don't be shocked. Clean it up as best you can and place him on a clean surface: a blanket preferably, which you can also cover him with. You are not going to keep the dog warm with the blanket, for his thermal sensitivity has left him. Yet there must be a dignity in death as well as in life. If your dog is nearing the end and he is home with you, put him on a blanket. If it becomes soiled, simply change blankets. You can use the blanket to carry him to the vet when the end does arrive.
Death is not to be feared nor to be looked upon as repulsive. Dogs that die simply go to sleep permanently. They look, to the average person, as if they are simply asleep. Death does not turn your dog into a hideous caricature. Your beautiful dog does not begin to decompose before your eyes, nor does he immediately discharge a repulsive odor. So you should have no fear in sharing this experience with the children if your dog dies in the house.
Many older dogs die in their sleep, at night, when the body is at its lowest ebb. In such cases, you may just wake up in the morning and find him peacefully asleep without heartbeat or movement in his chest. His eyes may be closed or they may be open. If they are open, you will observe a glassiness or glaze to the eyeball. You will be able to tap the surface of the eye gently without receiving any response. That is one very accurate way of telling if death has come. Should you elicit no response, no blinking, no movement in the eyeball, then, for his sense of dignity, close the eyes. You can lift up his jowls and examine the gums. If they are white and lifeless, the blood has ceased pumping vital oxygen throughout his body. You can also examine the chest for movement and for heartbeat.
When a dog is asleep, you can always notice some lung expansion as he inhales and exhales rhythmically. When he has ceased to breathe, there will be no heartbeat and no chest expansion. Certain muscles may twitch slightly, even after death, but this is only the remnants of electrical energy reacting in his muscles and nerve complexes and, unfortunately not a sign that he is still alive. It may seem to you slightly indelicate in your extremely distraught state, to be required to check your dog's vital life signs, such as the eyes, gums, chest, and heartbeat. But, if you do this and find that your dog is still alive, you will be saving precious time. Upon contacting your vet immediately, you will also make it easier for him to tell you what to do. You may have a chance to save the dog's life.
When animals (or humans) die, they lose control of their excretory functions. This is another sign of death, although animals under anesthesia can also display loss of control of excretory functions. Should you come upon your dog in the morning and, having established that he is dead, notice that he has urinated and defecated involuntarily during the night, don't be shocked. Clean it up as best you can and place him on a clean surface: a blanket preferably, which you can also cover him with. You are not going to keep the dog warm with the blanket, for his thermal sensitivity has left him. Yet there must be a dignity in death as well as in life. If your dog is nearing the end and he is home with you, put him on a blanket. If it becomes soiled, simply change blankets. You can use the blanket to carry him to the vet when the end does arrive.
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Possible Origins of Aggression Within Dogs
Aggressive temperaments in canines are usually the result of both genetics and the environment. A dog's environment can trigger aggressive behavior, particularly if he has a propensity toward aggression. For instance, people often blame a dog's aggression on being abused or teased by children. Fortunately, a dog's environment can be modified to protect him from abuse and teasing.
You can and should insulate the dog's space from negative interactions and incidents that might prompt aggression you cannot control. A chain link fence does not adequately protect the dog when the owner is at work or away because individuals or poorly supervised children may have access to him through the fence. Leaving the dog inside the house or constructing a double fence or a run far from the street fence are safer solutions. Protecting a dog from the environment is his owner's responsibility.
Aggression may also be the result of an injury. An injured dog may not understand the origin of the pain. As a result, he may snap at any object, including a helpful hand, that approaches the injured site. In cases of extreme pain, the dog may even lunge at anyone walking close. No matter how gentle a dog's temperament is under normal circumstances, take precautions such as using professional handling gloves, a muzzle, or at the least, wrap cloth around your hands before touching an injured dog.
Females with litters will often exhibit aggressive behavior around their puppies. Aggression associated with protecting the young is a natural behavior, and correcting the bitch may produce unnecessary negative interactions. The majority of bitches will allow trusted individuals to handle their puppies. Take time to gain the trust of the bitch before attempting to handle her puppies. Many bites are the result of an unsuspecting passerby or visitor invading the dog's perceived territory. No one should walk into another person's (dog's) yard or house uninvited, and certainly the house or yard should not be left open for people to enter.
High fences can prevent children from scaling them to retrieve lost balls, and security locks on gates are good deterrents for the average person. Even the mildest mannered dog may feel threatened by people walking in or invading his territory, especially when no one is home. Then again, there may be no apparent provocation for the dog to bite. This type of attack is known as rage syndrome or idiopathic aggression, and it is very dangerous. When a dog bites for no apparent reason, the victim is least able to avoid the bite. There may be no cues to indicate an impending attack. This type of aggression has been associated with a few specific breeds, but there have been reports of unprovoked attacks in many breeds.
You can and should insulate the dog's space from negative interactions and incidents that might prompt aggression you cannot control. A chain link fence does not adequately protect the dog when the owner is at work or away because individuals or poorly supervised children may have access to him through the fence. Leaving the dog inside the house or constructing a double fence or a run far from the street fence are safer solutions. Protecting a dog from the environment is his owner's responsibility.
Aggression may also be the result of an injury. An injured dog may not understand the origin of the pain. As a result, he may snap at any object, including a helpful hand, that approaches the injured site. In cases of extreme pain, the dog may even lunge at anyone walking close. No matter how gentle a dog's temperament is under normal circumstances, take precautions such as using professional handling gloves, a muzzle, or at the least, wrap cloth around your hands before touching an injured dog.
Females with litters will often exhibit aggressive behavior around their puppies. Aggression associated with protecting the young is a natural behavior, and correcting the bitch may produce unnecessary negative interactions. The majority of bitches will allow trusted individuals to handle their puppies. Take time to gain the trust of the bitch before attempting to handle her puppies. Many bites are the result of an unsuspecting passerby or visitor invading the dog's perceived territory. No one should walk into another person's (dog's) yard or house uninvited, and certainly the house or yard should not be left open for people to enter.
High fences can prevent children from scaling them to retrieve lost balls, and security locks on gates are good deterrents for the average person. Even the mildest mannered dog may feel threatened by people walking in or invading his territory, especially when no one is home. Then again, there may be no apparent provocation for the dog to bite. This type of attack is known as rage syndrome or idiopathic aggression, and it is very dangerous. When a dog bites for no apparent reason, the victim is least able to avoid the bite. There may be no cues to indicate an impending attack. This type of aggression has been associated with a few specific breeds, but there have been reports of unprovoked attacks in many breeds.
Monday, May 7, 2007
Dog Adoption: Shopping For A Shelter
You wouldn't adopt a dog from just anyone, would you? Of course not. You want to feel as though you're adopting your pup from a loving foster home, not rescuing her from a wicked captor. So once you've decided to adopt a special pup, the next important step is finding the right shelter. Not all adoption facilities are created equal, and you'll do yourself and your dog a tremendous service by choosing one that will meet your needs both now and throughout your life together.
As you shelter shop, remember that you're looking for - a place with a knowledgeable and caring staff, a comfortable physical setting for its animals and sensible policies and services to help make the adoption process smooth for adopters and dogs alike. It doesn't have to be huge, palatial or wealthy; it just has to do its job thoroughly and conscientiously. Chances are, there's a place like that not far from you. But remember, too, that great dog companions can turn up where you least expect them, so even if you don't find the perfect shelter in your area, that's no reason to give up your dreams of adoption.
What's the difference between a private shelter and a Humane Society, or an SPCA and a pound? The distinctions aren't always crystal-clear, and distinguishing among the different kinds of adoption facilities can get confusing. But in general, shelters, Humane Societies and SPCAs (Societies for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) are organizations dedicated to the rescuing and adopting of homeless animals, whereas "pounds" are municipally run animal control facilities that offer few or no adoption-oriented services.
Most shelters, Humane Societies, and SPCAs are privately operated, self-supported and independent; they care for and adopt abandoned animals and are often involved in humane education and litigation as well. Pounds, on the other hand, are usually operated under the auspices of a city or county government for the purpose of controlling stray animals. But that's not always the case, so you can find out exactly who operates the shelters you visit.
Clearly, some pounds and shelters are better than others. Many facilities really accommodate their residents and work hard to adopt them to good people; some other facilities don't meet their dogs' needs and don't do what it takes to find them homes. Unless you're an experienced dog person and know exactly what you're doing, you'll probably be better off shopping around until you find a shelter or pound that's clean, comfortable, and staffed by interested, knowledgeable people. They'll give you the support and services you need to adopt the right pup and make her transition into your home as smooth as possible.
As you shelter shop, remember that you're looking for - a place with a knowledgeable and caring staff, a comfortable physical setting for its animals and sensible policies and services to help make the adoption process smooth for adopters and dogs alike. It doesn't have to be huge, palatial or wealthy; it just has to do its job thoroughly and conscientiously. Chances are, there's a place like that not far from you. But remember, too, that great dog companions can turn up where you least expect them, so even if you don't find the perfect shelter in your area, that's no reason to give up your dreams of adoption.
What's the difference between a private shelter and a Humane Society, or an SPCA and a pound? The distinctions aren't always crystal-clear, and distinguishing among the different kinds of adoption facilities can get confusing. But in general, shelters, Humane Societies and SPCAs (Societies for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) are organizations dedicated to the rescuing and adopting of homeless animals, whereas "pounds" are municipally run animal control facilities that offer few or no adoption-oriented services.
Most shelters, Humane Societies, and SPCAs are privately operated, self-supported and independent; they care for and adopt abandoned animals and are often involved in humane education and litigation as well. Pounds, on the other hand, are usually operated under the auspices of a city or county government for the purpose of controlling stray animals. But that's not always the case, so you can find out exactly who operates the shelters you visit.
Clearly, some pounds and shelters are better than others. Many facilities really accommodate their residents and work hard to adopt them to good people; some other facilities don't meet their dogs' needs and don't do what it takes to find them homes. Unless you're an experienced dog person and know exactly what you're doing, you'll probably be better off shopping around until you find a shelter or pound that's clean, comfortable, and staffed by interested, knowledgeable people. They'll give you the support and services you need to adopt the right pup and make her transition into your home as smooth as possible.
Sunday, May 6, 2007
Dogs In Animal Shelters
Anyone who has worked longer than two seconds at an animal shelter knows that one of the chief reasons owners drop off their unwanted pets is that they are not house-trained. Shelter
personnel tend to be very world-wise and savvy, and they know that when an owner comes in and says, "We have to move," that usually means "He poops or barks or chews or digs” or whatever verb is appropriate. Shelter personnel often hear phrases like, "He's not as clean as I thought he would be, but I'm sure he would be for someone else," or "He might have a few accidents in his new home but he's really a sweetheart."
All these statements mean that the dog is not housebroken and the owners who adopt should be so informed. There should be a form that is used within each shelter to decode such problems and animals that cannot be placed and that harbor such problems might simply have to be moved up on the list of animals to be euthanized.
Before you disagree, let me say that I have paid my dues in shelter work. I have seen the pain that is involved on both the human and canine end (no matter how benign the euthanizing method) when a dog must be eliminated. I do not like the procedure nor the phenomenon.
It is crucial to get the puppy house-trained quickly and effectively, and of providing proper training throughout the dog's life. There is a large surplus of animals waiting for homes. Why place a dog that is known to be a chronic house-pooper? It just doesn't make sense, unless the dog has other appealing qualities and a potential owner who is fully aware of the problem and willing to work with it, patiently and consistently. Any other owner will sour on the dog quite quickly and either return it to the shelter or just abuse it.
Shelter personnel should also have on hand a variety of books, pamphlets and brochures that outline house-training procedures. Often clients will leave the shelter completely in the dark as to what to do once they get the puppy home, and will subsequently bungle the house-training process. A simple pamphlet or, better yet, a short consultation and a pamphlet at the shelter would have prevented many a returned puppy.
personnel tend to be very world-wise and savvy, and they know that when an owner comes in and says, "We have to move," that usually means "He poops or barks or chews or digs” or whatever verb is appropriate. Shelter personnel often hear phrases like, "He's not as clean as I thought he would be, but I'm sure he would be for someone else," or "He might have a few accidents in his new home but he's really a sweetheart."
All these statements mean that the dog is not housebroken and the owners who adopt should be so informed. There should be a form that is used within each shelter to decode such problems and animals that cannot be placed and that harbor such problems might simply have to be moved up on the list of animals to be euthanized.
Before you disagree, let me say that I have paid my dues in shelter work. I have seen the pain that is involved on both the human and canine end (no matter how benign the euthanizing method) when a dog must be eliminated. I do not like the procedure nor the phenomenon.
It is crucial to get the puppy house-trained quickly and effectively, and of providing proper training throughout the dog's life. There is a large surplus of animals waiting for homes. Why place a dog that is known to be a chronic house-pooper? It just doesn't make sense, unless the dog has other appealing qualities and a potential owner who is fully aware of the problem and willing to work with it, patiently and consistently. Any other owner will sour on the dog quite quickly and either return it to the shelter or just abuse it.
Shelter personnel should also have on hand a variety of books, pamphlets and brochures that outline house-training procedures. Often clients will leave the shelter completely in the dark as to what to do once they get the puppy home, and will subsequently bungle the house-training process. A simple pamphlet or, better yet, a short consultation and a pamphlet at the shelter would have prevented many a returned puppy.
Friday, May 4, 2007
Dealing With Dogs That Hate Either Men or Women
Hating men or women is the most peculiar form of instability in dogs. They seem to be sweet and happy with one sex and nervous or vicious with the other. What form of neurosis causes this we don't know. What can an owner do to make a dog with this nature livable?
First, examine the owner's mind. Has he or she ever had a grudge against the opposite sex? Did an overpowering schoolteacher make the young boy's or girl's life a misery? Does he or she boast that they only get along with men or women? Alsatians are peculiar in this way and will hate men or women instinctively if thought transference comes from an owner with a similar dislike. Many women like big guard dogs, and the big guard dog thrives in this state of affairs and easily develops a dislike of the sex the owner wishes to dominate.
Corgis do the same. This has been particularly noted in these two breeds, partly because they are highly intelligent breeds and telepathy is very marked and partly because the shepherding instinct is uppermost and they have a natural suspicion of strangers. Correct them firmly when young and one gets no further trouble. Accept their suspicious natures, and you will have dogs that hate men or women, usually women.
Now how do we live with such dogs? The world being what it is, we can't mix with only one sex. Even husbands or wives are a necessity, and it is often against the one or the other that the particular hate is centered. I think the solution is either to send the dog to be boarded or trained by a person of the sex it hates, or else get friends of that sex to feed it or take it for walks. If it shows any signs of being vicious, muzzle it and send it out for a long walk with the person it dislikes. Greet joyously that person when he or she returns and praise the dog. Make the person pat the dog and praise it before saying goodbye and, if possible, give it its food.
Of course there aren't many good friends who will do this, but I think that if an advertisement was put in the local newspaper, some dog lover would respond. It might even help to employ a "dog sitter" of the hated sex when you go out so that when you are out, the only comfort the dog would get would be from the sex it dislikes.
Only by being made to tolerate people will it respond. Obviously, if a female owner has been jilted and hates all men, her dog will naturally pick up this feeling when the owner is talking to a man. In many cases, all these faults in dogs can be traced to some minor mental disturbance of the owner, although the owner may be unaware of it.
First, examine the owner's mind. Has he or she ever had a grudge against the opposite sex? Did an overpowering schoolteacher make the young boy's or girl's life a misery? Does he or she boast that they only get along with men or women? Alsatians are peculiar in this way and will hate men or women instinctively if thought transference comes from an owner with a similar dislike. Many women like big guard dogs, and the big guard dog thrives in this state of affairs and easily develops a dislike of the sex the owner wishes to dominate.
Corgis do the same. This has been particularly noted in these two breeds, partly because they are highly intelligent breeds and telepathy is very marked and partly because the shepherding instinct is uppermost and they have a natural suspicion of strangers. Correct them firmly when young and one gets no further trouble. Accept their suspicious natures, and you will have dogs that hate men or women, usually women.
Now how do we live with such dogs? The world being what it is, we can't mix with only one sex. Even husbands or wives are a necessity, and it is often against the one or the other that the particular hate is centered. I think the solution is either to send the dog to be boarded or trained by a person of the sex it hates, or else get friends of that sex to feed it or take it for walks. If it shows any signs of being vicious, muzzle it and send it out for a long walk with the person it dislikes. Greet joyously that person when he or she returns and praise the dog. Make the person pat the dog and praise it before saying goodbye and, if possible, give it its food.
Of course there aren't many good friends who will do this, but I think that if an advertisement was put in the local newspaper, some dog lover would respond. It might even help to employ a "dog sitter" of the hated sex when you go out so that when you are out, the only comfort the dog would get would be from the sex it dislikes.
Only by being made to tolerate people will it respond. Obviously, if a female owner has been jilted and hates all men, her dog will naturally pick up this feeling when the owner is talking to a man. In many cases, all these faults in dogs can be traced to some minor mental disturbance of the owner, although the owner may be unaware of it.
Do Dogs Have Emotions?
Trying to determine if your dog is experiencing anger, love, or any other "human" emotion is difficult. To date, no one has been able to provide convincing scientific evidence that we can distinguish one emotion from another by what our brains or hormones do. We obviously feel differently when we're in a loving versus an angry mood; however, what our brain does to influence us to feel those very different emotions is less clear.
Nonetheless, we believe that our pets love us, they appear to be embarrassed when we dress them up in silly clothes, and they certainly look like they're feeling guilty after doing something wrong.” But do they know right from wrong, and when they do the wrong thing, do they really feel guilty?
What would it take for us to be convinced that our pet actually experiences a specific emotion? Is it possible that his appearance, the way he looks in his body language and behavior, leads us to confuse guilt with submissive, defensive behavior? Do we think that he's experiencing guilt from the way he looks or from the situation that seems to call for guilt? Do we think that our dog actually feels emotions such as guilt, love, shame, hope, pride, relief, regret, or revenge? It's an interesting question, and behaviorists are still working on it. But let's look at it in terms of revenge.
When we think of getting revenge against someone who has "done us wrong," we think of doing something to get back at the person. We decide on the appropriate revenge by imagining how it would make the person feel to have such-and-such happen to him. If we think it would really make him feel bad, and it would get back at him in an appropriate way, it makes us feel good, even if we just imagine it. We don't actually need to get revenge, we just need to imagine his reaction if he were to get what he deserves.
Your dog probably doesn't have the ability to imagine how you would feel if he were to soil your bed as revenge for leaving him alone all weekend. And he probably wouldn't chew your favorite shoes as revenge for locking him in the bedroom and keeping him from enjoying that piece of chicken you had last night. The ability to look into another's psyche to imagine one's emotional response to a planned endeavor is what behaviorists call revenge. Revenge requires a "theory of mind" that dogs do not have.
Dogs see the world from their perspective. That's why arranging their daily lives from their point of view works so well. Not only would it seem strange to understand why you won't give him a dog biscuit before dinner because it would spoil his appetite, but it would seem even more strange if he is seen planning something later that evening to make you feel bad in some way for your stinginess. Yet we often find ourselves believing that this is exactly what our pet must have done when we discover that he's chewed our best shoes. In reality, our pet's behavior is probably caused by a disruption of his routine, an increased arousal or excitement, or a way to relieve discomfort or frustration.
Now that you understand your dog's emotions, you can go about changing them to create a mood that is incompatible with the mood that drives his misbehavior. The concept is called the principle of competing motivations: A dog cannot be angry, fearful, or depressed and happy or exited at the same time!
Nonetheless, we believe that our pets love us, they appear to be embarrassed when we dress them up in silly clothes, and they certainly look like they're feeling guilty after doing something wrong.” But do they know right from wrong, and when they do the wrong thing, do they really feel guilty?
What would it take for us to be convinced that our pet actually experiences a specific emotion? Is it possible that his appearance, the way he looks in his body language and behavior, leads us to confuse guilt with submissive, defensive behavior? Do we think that he's experiencing guilt from the way he looks or from the situation that seems to call for guilt? Do we think that our dog actually feels emotions such as guilt, love, shame, hope, pride, relief, regret, or revenge? It's an interesting question, and behaviorists are still working on it. But let's look at it in terms of revenge.
When we think of getting revenge against someone who has "done us wrong," we think of doing something to get back at the person. We decide on the appropriate revenge by imagining how it would make the person feel to have such-and-such happen to him. If we think it would really make him feel bad, and it would get back at him in an appropriate way, it makes us feel good, even if we just imagine it. We don't actually need to get revenge, we just need to imagine his reaction if he were to get what he deserves.
Your dog probably doesn't have the ability to imagine how you would feel if he were to soil your bed as revenge for leaving him alone all weekend. And he probably wouldn't chew your favorite shoes as revenge for locking him in the bedroom and keeping him from enjoying that piece of chicken you had last night. The ability to look into another's psyche to imagine one's emotional response to a planned endeavor is what behaviorists call revenge. Revenge requires a "theory of mind" that dogs do not have.
Dogs see the world from their perspective. That's why arranging their daily lives from their point of view works so well. Not only would it seem strange to understand why you won't give him a dog biscuit before dinner because it would spoil his appetite, but it would seem even more strange if he is seen planning something later that evening to make you feel bad in some way for your stinginess. Yet we often find ourselves believing that this is exactly what our pet must have done when we discover that he's chewed our best shoes. In reality, our pet's behavior is probably caused by a disruption of his routine, an increased arousal or excitement, or a way to relieve discomfort or frustration.
Now that you understand your dog's emotions, you can go about changing them to create a mood that is incompatible with the mood that drives his misbehavior. The concept is called the principle of competing motivations: A dog cannot be angry, fearful, or depressed and happy or exited at the same time!
Thursday, May 3, 2007
10 Dog Barking Moments & What Your Dog Is Trying To Say
1. Continuous rapid barking, mid range pitch: "Call the pack! There is a potential problem! Someone is coming into our territory!" Continuous barking but a bit slower and pitched lower: "The intruder [or danger] is very close. Get ready to defend yourself!"
2. Barking in rapid strings of three or four with pauses in between, mid range pitch: "I suspect that there may be a problem or an intruder near our territory. I think that the leader of the pack should look into it."
3. Prolonged or incessant barking, with moderate to long intervals between each utterance: "Is there anybody there? I'm lonely and need companionship." This is most often the response to confinement or being left alone for long periods of time.
4. One or two sharp short barks, mid range pitch: "Hello there!" This is the most typical greeting sound.
5. Single sharp short bark, lower mid range pitch: "Stop that!" This is often given by a mother dog when disciplining her puppies but may also indicate annoyance in any dog, such as when disturbed from sleep or if hair is pulled during grooming and so forth.
6. Single sharp short bark, higher mid range: "What's this?" or "Huh?" This is a startled or surprised sound. If it is repeated two or three times its meaning changes to "Come look at this!" alerting the pack to a novel event. This same type of bark, but not quite as short and
sharp, is used to mean "Come here!" Many dogs will use this kind of bark at the door to indicate that they want to go out. Lowering the pitch to a relaxed mid range means "Terrific!" or some other similar expletive, such as "Oh, great!" My cairn terrier, for example, who loves to jump, will give this single bark of joy when sent over the high jump. Other dogs give this same bark when given their food dish.
7. Single yelp or very short high-pitched bark: "Ouch!" This is in response to a sudden, unexpected pain.
8. Series of yelps: "I'm hurting!" "I'm really scared" This is in response to severe fear and pain.
9. Stutter-bark, mid range pitch: If a dog's bark were spelled "ruff," the stutter-bark would be spelled "ar-ruff." It means "Let's play!" and is used to initiate playing behavior.
10. Rising bark: This is a bit hard to describe, although once you've heard it, it is unmistakable. It is usually a series of barks, each of which starts in the middle range but rises sharply in pitch - almost a bark-yelp, though not quite that high. It is a play bark, used during rough-and- tumble games, that shows excitement and translates as "This is fun!"
2. Barking in rapid strings of three or four with pauses in between, mid range pitch: "I suspect that there may be a problem or an intruder near our territory. I think that the leader of the pack should look into it."
3. Prolonged or incessant barking, with moderate to long intervals between each utterance: "Is there anybody there? I'm lonely and need companionship." This is most often the response to confinement or being left alone for long periods of time.
4. One or two sharp short barks, mid range pitch: "Hello there!" This is the most typical greeting sound.
5. Single sharp short bark, lower mid range pitch: "Stop that!" This is often given by a mother dog when disciplining her puppies but may also indicate annoyance in any dog, such as when disturbed from sleep or if hair is pulled during grooming and so forth.
6. Single sharp short bark, higher mid range: "What's this?" or "Huh?" This is a startled or surprised sound. If it is repeated two or three times its meaning changes to "Come look at this!" alerting the pack to a novel event. This same type of bark, but not quite as short and
sharp, is used to mean "Come here!" Many dogs will use this kind of bark at the door to indicate that they want to go out. Lowering the pitch to a relaxed mid range means "Terrific!" or some other similar expletive, such as "Oh, great!" My cairn terrier, for example, who loves to jump, will give this single bark of joy when sent over the high jump. Other dogs give this same bark when given their food dish.
7. Single yelp or very short high-pitched bark: "Ouch!" This is in response to a sudden, unexpected pain.
8. Series of yelps: "I'm hurting!" "I'm really scared" This is in response to severe fear and pain.
9. Stutter-bark, mid range pitch: If a dog's bark were spelled "ruff," the stutter-bark would be spelled "ar-ruff." It means "Let's play!" and is used to initiate playing behavior.
10. Rising bark: This is a bit hard to describe, although once you've heard it, it is unmistakable. It is usually a series of barks, each of which starts in the middle range but rises sharply in pitch - almost a bark-yelp, though not quite that high. It is a play bark, used during rough-and- tumble games, that shows excitement and translates as "This is fun!"
Did You Know That Your Dog Would Absolutely Love A Massage?
Every culture that allows domestic pets teaches its members ways to relate physically with those pets. In some countries, dogs live a dog's life, and are rarely held or petted. We've noticed that some German dogs that we import do not seem to like our "American" way of petting. After investigation with our German contacts, we have learned that Germans have a slightly different approach to their dogs. They pet and stroke them in a different way and in different places than do many Americans. In our culture, petting a dog is very important. Most people tend to pet dogs around the head and shoulder regions and stop there. Others literally trounce their dogs, pounding their sides and ruffling their fur.
Sometimes there is little method to the physical display. The dog is expected to "take it" whether or not it is the kind of physical affection it enjoys. Few dog owners stop to read their dog's needs and desires. A dog owner may find that the dog does not enjoy being petted - if by petting we mean rough jostling or pounding. Instead, like many humans, they greatly
enjoy a more extended type of body contact - a kind of massage.
Massage can be a beneficial technique when used as an aid to relaxation. The first principle of dog massage is to stop thinking of your dog solely from the shoulders up. Contact can be made with almost any part of the dog's body if it is sensitive contact. Skilled veterinarians know this from treating unapproachable patients. They often have to devise creative ways of lifting the animal up onto an examination table, or treating injuries all over a pet's body.
To begin a dog massage, make a list of all the areas where a given dog likes body contact. If you are the dog's owner, you know. If you are not, ask the owner. Then list the areas where
the dog is sensitive to touch. Begin your first massage with the areas on your first list, but include one area on the second. Gradually include more "forbidden" areas as you give massages.
It's best to begin on the head, gently massaging the eyelids, muzzle, and nose. Always keep one hand in contact with the dog during the entire massage. It's best to have the dog in the sitting position. From the head area, work down the neck to the chest and pectoral muscle. Some dogs will automatically offer a paw. Take hold of it, but gently place it down if the dog seems to be losing balance.
Choose a leg and work up and down on it very gently. If your dog decides to lie down, you will have better access to its rear legs. Try to avoid forcing the dog down. If your dog knows the command for down, you can use it in massage work, but don't force the issue. Make your
strokes long and firm. Try to distinguish massage from regular petting. The massage should be more extended and pliable in its movement than regular petting. Avoid all slapping, pinching, and pulling motions. These will break the mood of the massage. Many dogs will communicate quite clearly what they like and dislike.
Sometimes there is little method to the physical display. The dog is expected to "take it" whether or not it is the kind of physical affection it enjoys. Few dog owners stop to read their dog's needs and desires. A dog owner may find that the dog does not enjoy being petted - if by petting we mean rough jostling or pounding. Instead, like many humans, they greatly
enjoy a more extended type of body contact - a kind of massage.
Massage can be a beneficial technique when used as an aid to relaxation. The first principle of dog massage is to stop thinking of your dog solely from the shoulders up. Contact can be made with almost any part of the dog's body if it is sensitive contact. Skilled veterinarians know this from treating unapproachable patients. They often have to devise creative ways of lifting the animal up onto an examination table, or treating injuries all over a pet's body.
To begin a dog massage, make a list of all the areas where a given dog likes body contact. If you are the dog's owner, you know. If you are not, ask the owner. Then list the areas where
the dog is sensitive to touch. Begin your first massage with the areas on your first list, but include one area on the second. Gradually include more "forbidden" areas as you give massages.
It's best to begin on the head, gently massaging the eyelids, muzzle, and nose. Always keep one hand in contact with the dog during the entire massage. It's best to have the dog in the sitting position. From the head area, work down the neck to the chest and pectoral muscle. Some dogs will automatically offer a paw. Take hold of it, but gently place it down if the dog seems to be losing balance.
Choose a leg and work up and down on it very gently. If your dog decides to lie down, you will have better access to its rear legs. Try to avoid forcing the dog down. If your dog knows the command for down, you can use it in massage work, but don't force the issue. Make your
strokes long and firm. Try to distinguish massage from regular petting. The massage should be more extended and pliable in its movement than regular petting. Avoid all slapping, pinching, and pulling motions. These will break the mood of the massage. Many dogs will communicate quite clearly what they like and dislike.
Tuesday, May 1, 2007
How Dogs Use Their Tails As Signals & Gestures: Part 2
Tail position is an important indicator of social standing and mental state of a dog. There will be some variations, of course, depending upon the natural tail position of the dog: a West Highland white terrier will carry its carrot-shaped tail higher than a golden retriever its flowing, feathery tail, and a greyhound's relaxed tail position is lower yet.
Almost horizontal, pointing away from the dog but not stiff: This is a sign of attention. It roughly translates as "Something interesting may be happening here."
Straight out horizontally, pointing away from the dog: This is part of an initial challenge when meeting a stranger or an intruder. It roughly translates as "Let's establish who's boss here."
Tail up, between the horizontal and vertical position: This is the sign of a dominant dog, or one who is asserting dominance, and translates as "I'm boss here."
Tail up and slightly curved over the back: "I'm top dog," this says. It is the expression of a confident, dominant dog who feels in control.
Tail held lower than the horizontal but still some distance from the legs: "I'm relaxed." "All is well."
Tail down, near hind legs: This changes its meaning with the posture of the dog. If the legs are still straight and the tail slightly brushes back and forth, it means "I'm not feeling well" or "I'm a bit depressed." If the legs are slightly bent inward, giving a slight downward slope to the back it means "I'm feeling a bit insecure," especially in an unknown setting or situation.
Tail tucked between the legs: "I'm frightened!" or "Don't hurt me!" This is especially common in the presence of a dominant dog or person, when it can also mean, "I accept my lowly role in the pack, and I'm not trying to challenge you.
Bristling hair down the tail: The bristle in the dog's tail is a sign of aggression. It may modify any tail position. Thus, with the straight out it means "I'm ready to fight if you are!" and with the tail slightly up or over the back it means "I'm not afraid of you and will fight to prove
I'm boss."
Crick or sharp bend in the tail when held high: This is more characteristic of the dogs that look like wolves, such as the German shepherds, and means much the same as the tail bristling. It is the precursor to possible aggression.
Broad tail wag: "I like you." This is often shown during play,
Almost horizontal, pointing away from the dog but not stiff: This is a sign of attention. It roughly translates as "Something interesting may be happening here."
Straight out horizontally, pointing away from the dog: This is part of an initial challenge when meeting a stranger or an intruder. It roughly translates as "Let's establish who's boss here."
Tail up, between the horizontal and vertical position: This is the sign of a dominant dog, or one who is asserting dominance, and translates as "I'm boss here."
Tail up and slightly curved over the back: "I'm top dog," this says. It is the expression of a confident, dominant dog who feels in control.
Tail held lower than the horizontal but still some distance from the legs: "I'm relaxed." "All is well."
Tail down, near hind legs: This changes its meaning with the posture of the dog. If the legs are still straight and the tail slightly brushes back and forth, it means "I'm not feeling well" or "I'm a bit depressed." If the legs are slightly bent inward, giving a slight downward slope to the back it means "I'm feeling a bit insecure," especially in an unknown setting or situation.
Tail tucked between the legs: "I'm frightened!" or "Don't hurt me!" This is especially common in the presence of a dominant dog or person, when it can also mean, "I accept my lowly role in the pack, and I'm not trying to challenge you.
Bristling hair down the tail: The bristle in the dog's tail is a sign of aggression. It may modify any tail position. Thus, with the straight out it means "I'm ready to fight if you are!" and with the tail slightly up or over the back it means "I'm not afraid of you and will fight to prove
I'm boss."
Crick or sharp bend in the tail when held high: This is more characteristic of the dogs that look like wolves, such as the German shepherds, and means much the same as the tail bristling. It is the precursor to possible aggression.
Broad tail wag: "I like you." This is often shown during play,
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