How to Housebreak Your Puppy

Housebreaking is the most indispensable thing your puppy must learn. Common sense should tell you why. Do you want your house to stay spic and span? Handle your puppy's housebreaking well. Aside from the maintenance of your household hygiene, trained dogs are happy dogs. As creatures of habit, it's in their nature to keep schedules as pack animals. Here is how you should housebreak your puppy:

Ideal Housebreaking Age

When your puppy reaches the age of 8 to 12 weeks old, it's high time to begin housebreaking. Remember that adage that old dogs can't learn new tricks? It is true so why take chances?

Crate Help

Dog trainers suggest using a crate in housebreaking your puppy. A crate is like a cage, with see-through bars and a locking door. Its size should accommodate well the dogs size for it to move around in. It should be used like a dog's bedroom. It is advised to not confine your puppy in his crate for more than two hours at a time.

The reasoning behind using a crate in housebreaking your puppy is that dogs will not dirty their sleeping areas. However, he may do so if you lock him in somewhere for longer than he can hold it in. Never use a crate to punish your dog, it will backfire. Generally, pups that are three-months old must eliminate every 3 hours, so you should lead him to a special outdoor comfort place more often.

Make Your Puppy Learn Routines

Another tip is to leave the house through one door only. This door should be the one that you want your dog to scratch to warn you about his being called by the nature.

Taking your pup out at around the same times every day will be very beneficial for the both of you. This will help in establishing a routine, and will make him learn to hold it in until you become available to take him out.

Look For Clues

If your un-housebroken dog is accustomed to roaming freely around the house, search for signs that show you he needs to do it. Be really observant enough of his behavior, i.e., heavy sniffing, circling an area, staring at the door with an intense look on his face, etc. If you catch him WHILE doing it, stop him with a quick grab of his collar and pull it up while saying "No" using your deep, stern tone (don't forget to use a deep, gruff voice when stating commands). Then, take him outside and let him finish what he is doing. Lastly, pat him on his head while saying "Good (his name)!" It is a must to make your dog get used to being praised whenever he does anything that makes you proud. Giving him food as a reward when he does his business in the appropriate spot can help, too.

Patience is a Big Virtue

Like any training endeavor, housebreaking requires a lot of patience. If you definitely despise cleaning your dog's waste off your Persian carpets on an hourly basis and having your whole house smell like a public bathroom, you want the housebreaking to be successful in a wink of an eye, if not sooner.

Common Sense Makes a Lot of Sense

The use of common sense will aid you big time in dealing with your puppy's housebreaking. Logical thinking should inform you to not give your dog water before bedtime if his tendency is to pee often at night time. Catering to his schedule first will prove to be very helpful in making it gradually change into yours.

Aside from patience and common sense, consistency is also one of the important factors of this dog training activity. If you suddenly forget about the routines yourself, don't blame if your dog if he starts committing accidents more often. Remember that the stakes are high (dirty and malodorous house). If you would like succeed in this housebreaking feat or just about in any other training drills, don't treat it as a game. Allot enough time and commitment on your part.

Best of luck!

Weight Problems in Dogs: Is Your Dog Fat?

Did you know that obesity is one of the greatest health risks among dogs?

Obesity is caused by excessive eating and unhealthy binges just as it is in humans. Often, this situation is triggered by some environmental factors that may lead to more problems when not controlled .

Like humans, dogs develop certain diseases when they are overweight. These diseases, if not corrected, can lead to more serious complications including death. Here is a list of some of the repercussions of obesity in dogs:

1. Arthritis

Obesity in dogs tends to put extra weight on their bones. In turn, the joints and other parts of the dog’s bones develop arthritis.

Excess weight in dogs may also initiate the development of other muscle and joint problems like spinal disc disease, hip dysplasia, and cracks on the joint ligaments.

2. Diabetes

Like humans, dogs can get diabetes too. We all know for a fact that overweight cause diabetes in humans. This can also happen in dogs. The reason is that the more fat stored in the dog’s body, the greater its system will generate insulin in order to cope up with its growing mass. Hence, dogs have the tendency to resist too much insulin in the body. The end result is diabetes.

3. Skin problems

Obesity in dogs can cause some skin problems. This is because excess fat deposits are being stored in their skin; hence, their owners are having a hard time grooming them. When dogs lack proper grooming, there is a tendency to accumulate bacteria, dirt, or other elements that could cause harm to your dog’s skin. In the end, they develop rashes, skin ruptures, and infections.

4. Capacity to tolerate heat

With too much fat deposits accumulated in their skin, dogs are more inclined to problems concerning heat tolerance. This is because dogs find it hard to tolerate heat due to the build-up of fats in their skin. That is why most obese dogs are prone to heat stroke especially during summer time.

5. Respiratory problems and other heart diseases

Like humans, obese dogs also have the tendency to develop respiratory problems and heart diseases. This is because the chest cavity is already covered with thick fat deposits. Hence, whenever the dog breathes, the lungs are having a hard time expanding and so does the heart. The problem starts when the heart and the lungs can no longer produce the right amount of oxygen and circulate it within the dog’s body.

6. Gastrointestinal problems

Obesity in dogs causes some problems in their intestines and pancreas. This problem results in an inflamed pancreas which is very painful to the dog and can also cause death.

7. Liver problems

Fats are harder to strain and this can pose a problem to the dog’s liver. When the liver can no longer function well because of the fat deposits that accumulated in the area, liver problems may occur and may even cause the death of your dog.

These health problems are indeed life threatening. It depends upon the owner how to combat these problems in order to keep your dog healthy.

One of the greatest ways to solve weight problems is a strict exercise schedule. It is a must that owners create a healthy exercise schedule for their dogs. This can be done by taking them for a walk every afternoon or letting him run through a field.

The best thing about this program is that not only the dogs get the chance to exercise but their owners as well. So, it’s a double benefit.

Next is to create a healthy diet for your dogs. Diet meals are extremely important for dogs so that they can still obtain the necessary nutrients they need in order to stay healthy. This should include the right combination of fiber, meat, vegetables, vitamins, and minerals.

However, dog owners should always keep in mind that when their dogs are taking fiber, more water should be employed so as to prevent constipation.

Alternatively, dog owners should also remember that before incorporating all of these things for your dog, it’s best to consult the veterinarian first.

For healthier and happier dogs, give them the best love and care you can plus a great dietary regimen. As they say, a healthy dog is a happy dog.

Overview of Different Breeds of Dogs

There are over a hundred registered breeds of dogs. Recognizing the type of dog is basically associated with its breed. A purebred animal belongs to a documented and acknowledged group of unmixed lineage. Before a breed of dog is recognized, it must be proved that mating two adult dogs of the same type would have passed on their exact characteristics, both appearance and behavior, to their offspring.

If you are thinking of adopting or buying a pet dog for yourself, it is important to know which type of dog you want. Here are a few popular dog breeds for your easy reference:

Labrador
Labradors are very outgoing dogs that have yellow, black or brown furs. Labrador are versatile dogs that have a wide range of functions. Most of them are known to retrievers and are utilized as guide dogs for the blind. They enjoy holding different objects in their mouth and are prone to chewing things. Labradors are observed to be hypersensitive and have a high regard for their territory. Their furs are water repellant thus making them perfect for waterfowl hunting. They are excellent as family dog.

German Shepherds
Germans shepherds are also known as Alsatian. Originally, they were intended to help farmers in herding their sheep or cattle. They are incredibly intelligent and very trainable. Because of their build they are often used as working dogs in the military or police community. Many are also guide dogs. German shepherds are large and strong dogs with varied fur colors. Most comes in cream, tank, white or black.

Boxer
Boxers have pointed ears that are tilted forward. They have a distinguishable white underbelly and white parts at the tip of each foot. These white regions are often called as ‘flashiness’ which sometimes extend to other parts of the body. These usually appear on the shoulders and face. Boxers are a playful and energetic breed. They are perfect as a pet for children because they have an extended puppyhood, meaning they are not considered as an adult dog until they reach the age of three. Training would not be a problem. Boxers are known to be obedient and possess a strong personality. It is advisable to train a boxer at an early age. They can sometimes be a substitute as guide dogs or police dogs.

Rotweiller
Rotweillers’ origin traced back to ancient times. Their existence has been associated with the Roman Empire as watchers for groups of cattle. Since then, their incredible strength and intelligence has been recognized. They are used as police dogs and military aides during war time. Rotweillers are black with tan spots on its cheeks, legs, chest and face. You should definitely find one too underneath their tails. They are marked with upside down triangles that can be found on the chest area. Their eyebrows have a unique spot on each one. Rotweillers are intelligent and fearless dogs. You can notice their foreheads getting a little wrinkly when they are alert. Rotties are very active and playful and are fast on learning tricks.

Poodle
Poodles can be a very good companion and are very loyal to their owners. They belong to a quiet breed of dogs that has a naturally curly fur. Their color ranges from black, grey, white, blue, apricot or brown. Training a poodle tends to require more effort compared to other breeds. They are considered as a hypoallergenic breed. They are very famous for their very nice coats. Maintenance proves to be a tedious job. Owners have to keep their hair in a manageable length so that matting and tangling is prevented.

Dachshund
Dachshunds are also referred to as sausage dogs because of their elongated build. They have short legs and pointed facial framework. Chasing and hunting are their favorite past times. Most dachshunds have crooked legs and chest compared to a barrel. Dachshunds are playful and loyal dogs that love to chase small animals like birds. Their senses are very keen and well-developed though they often exhibit shyness.

Beagle
Beagles have acquired a strong sense of smell. Because of such quality they are used for hunting animals like rabbits. They have big ears that are low set giving them that gentle look. Their furs are commonly white, black, brown or a combination of both. Beagles are known to be very good tempered. Training might prove to be a tricky task because these dogs are strong willed quite stubborn. Beagles travel in pack, being a pet dog might cause them to have anxiety.

Above is a simple overview of popular breed of dogs. In choosing a dog consider each breeds’ physical appearance, temperament and health issues. Of course, each dog should fit your lifestyle. Remember dogs should be given proper attention and care but in exchange you can have the best companion ever.

10 Tips To Help Keep Your Pets Acting “Civil” To Each Other

Put two or more people under the same roof, and tensions occasionally flare up. If two people can't always keep the lid on emotional outbreaks, why should pets be expected to do so? Naturally, your pets will have a spat periodically. After all, they are often the only ones that know what circumstances brought it about. If one animal appears to be in danger from another, breaking up the brawl may be necessary. If your canine house-mates get into a squabble, try some of these methods to separate the animals without risking your own life or limbs:

1. Reproductive drives can be a source of fighting, especially among males, so spaying or neutering your dogs will reduce outbreaks as a result of biological urges.

2. Proper introductions and training will go a long way in preventing fights before they start.

3. Water is one of the most effective and most harmless ways to separate two dogs that have locked horns. If the dogs are outside, squirt them with a hose. If indoors, squirt them with a squirt bottle or grab the nearest plastic container and fill it with water to douse the two.

4. Give your dogs their own food dishes, beds, and toys to discourage competition that may cause them to fight.

5. Forming a hierarchy is natural to dogs. To keep your dogs from fighting, respect the hierarchy. Feed the alpha (dominant) dog first and don't give the dogs lower on the hierarchy special attention or favors in order to keep the hierarchy stable.

6. Try grabbing the dogs' collars to pull them apart. If you can't get to the collar without risk of teeth marks in your hands, try another method.

7. Some behaviorists recommend grabbing one dog's legs and lifting them up and away from the other dog. Be careful not to yank or pull so hard as to tear a muscle or injure the dog's hips or legs.

8. Use a pepper spray product that is formulated for dogs. The product will get the two dogs to stop fighting before they injure each other. Caution: Do not spray into the dog's eyes!

9. Try maneuvering the dogs into a doorway and separate them with the door.

10. Lastly, adopting or purchasing a dog known to get along with another species will save you time and energy helping each adjust to the other. A dog exposed to cats and dogs some time in his past is more likely to get along with a newcomer brought into the home, assuming the exposure was a positive one. If you obtained your dog at a shelter, ask the shelter staff if they know anything about his history and whether he came from a home that had both dogs and cats. If you purchase your dog from a breeder, inquire what other kinds of pets the breeder has.

Dog Training - The Basic Commands

There are of course many reasons for owners to want a calm, obedient and faithful dog. For one thing, obedient and trained dogs are happier dogs, less likely to get into tussles with people or with other dogs. Another reason is that many communities require that the dogs living in their neighborhoods be well trained. This is especially true for many breeds thought to have aggression and behavior problems - dog breeds like pit bulls and rottweilers for instance.

And of course, training your dog well will also make he or she a much better family companion, especially in households where there are young children. Many studies have shown that proper dog training makes a big impact when it comes to cutting down the number of dog bits and other behavior problems encountered by dog owning households.

When considering training your own dog, or having someone else help you train it, there are certain basic commands that must be mastered in order for a dog to be considered truly trained. These basic commands include:

* Heel - it is important that any dog learn to walk beside its owner on a loose lead, neither pulling ahead nor lagging behind.

* Respond to the word No - the word no is one word that all dogs must learn. Training your dog to respond to this important word can save you a ton of trouble.

* Sit - Training your dog to sit on command is a vital part of any dog training program.

* Stay - A well trained dog should remain where his or her owner commands, so stay is a very important command in dog training.

* Down - Lying down on command is more than just a cute trick; it is a key component of any successful dog training program.

Dog training does much more than just create an obedient, willing companion. Training your dog properly actually strengthens the bond that already exists between dog and handler. Dogs are pack animals, and they look to their pack leader to tell them what to do. The key to successful dog training is to set yourself up as that pack leader.

What to do when a foreign object gets inside your dog’s body

With their combination of scavenging habits and inquisitive nature, most dogs, at one time or another, will be likely to have a foreign object embedded in their skin. Sharp objects such as glass, needles, thorns, as well as plant seeds, are the most common culprits that can be embedded in their skin. These items often enter the eyes, nose, ears, skin, vulva, and particularly the area between their toes. For this reason, always examine your dog’s coat and skin for any sign of foreign bodies after taking him out for walks.

Signs that your dog has a foreign body embedded in his skin are when he shakes his head, paws at the wound, sneezes, or when he licks at the wound vigorously. His body will try to get rid of the object by creating a local bursting abscess, although objects such as grass seeds can sometimes travel throughout the body.

Check your dog’s ears and body for plant seeds after taking him for a walk, especially during dry weather. When a foreign body accidentally enters his ear, you can easily remove it using tweezers. If you notice that your dog is shaking his head, this may be because the seed is lodged deeper inside of the ear canal.

In this case, you will need to take him to the vet. In the meantime, to relieve your dog’s discomfort temporarily, you may fill the affected ear with mineral oil or olive oil. Filling up the ear with oil will help float the seed up for easy removal.

If you notice that your dog is pawing at his eye or vigorously rubbing his head on the ground, hold open his eyelid and check for grit or grass seeds. Try floating out foreign body in the eye using eye drops or olive oil. If the foreign object has penetrated the eyeball, do not try to remove it and take your dog to the vet as soon as you can.

Sharp objects, such as needles, thorns, and shards of glass can enter your dog’s paw pads, and grass seeds can enter the webs of skin between his toes. If you notice your dog limping, check his paw and remove any visible object using tweezers. However, if the object cannot be seen, bathe the foot several times daily with salt water until the object becomes visible and can be easily removed.

5 Ways To Reduce That Smelly Dog Odor In The House

No matter how often our dogs wash themselves or we wash them, sometimes just having a dog in the house can leave a smell. Long after the stain is lifted, dog odors can linger. Follow some of these suggestions to keep from being entrenched in stench.

1. Bathing your dog regularly will help cut down dog odors. If it's too cold to bathe him, use a dry shampoo or massage some baking soda into your dog's coat and brush it out to remove odors.

2. Purchase an electronic air-cleaning system designed to remove dog odors from the air.

3. Make your own carpet freshener by combining one box of baking soda with one tablespoon of orris root (available in herb stores) that has been saturated in your favorite scented oil. Place the mixture in a glass jar and cover with a metal lid in which you've punched holes. Let it sit for a few days so that the baking soda picks up the oil scent then sprinkle it onto the carpet before vacuuming.

4. Use a window fan set on exhaust to make odor elimination a breeze.

5. Odors and stains from feces or urine are protein-based and require an odor neutralizer containing bacterial enzymes to completely eliminate them. Purchase enzyme products at dis- count department stores, health stores, or pet stores.

How to Fight Flea Infestation in Your Dog

The natural way:

• Vacuum your home frequently and seal vacuum bags before disposing.

• Wash the bedding of your dog weekly in warm soapy water. This is where fleas usually breed.

• Bathing your pet weekly with a mild dog shampoo prevents flea invasion.

• Use cedar shampoo for your dog, and put cedar oil in their sleeping mats. Cedar will repel fleas and other insects.Fleas are attracted to dry skin, so to avoid it, give your dog Linatone oil mixed with its food. Excessive shampooing should be avoided.

• A mixture of brewer’s yeast and garlic, available in powder or tablet form can be given in small doses to your pet. This creates a certain odor in pets, and fleas are surely to avoid them.

• Fresh or dried pennyroyal leaves is a natural flea repellent. Use this in carpets to avoid the abundance of fleas in the home. Do not use it if you have small children around, as this could be toxic.

• A mixture of 60 ml of lavender oil with 2.8 liters of rock salt can also be placed in areas where dogs usually come in contact with and this solution could also be used to wash your dog.

• Planting marigolds in the yard is helpful too, it repels certain types of bugs as well as fleas.

• Boiled lemon or orange peel in water can be used as a dip for dogs and can be used too to soak in dog bedding for a few hours, then washed with warm soapy water.

• Lukewarm water with little shampoo and detergent is a good way to prevent fleas. A dog’s body may be dipped into the solution for fifteen minutes and then rinsed. This only works if flea infestation is light.

The natural way of treating fleas is effective only if the level of flea infestation is average to very few. This method usually is recommended for prevention only.

Different commercially available products with chemical contents:

Advantage. Active ingredient is imidacloprid. This is a flea poison, from Bayer. It is in a liquid form and applied to the skin, at the back of the dog, and works for about a month. This works by upsetting the nervous system of fleas when they come in contact with the liquid. This product is fast acting and is not absorbed into the internal organs and bloodstream of the dog.

Studies indicate that this product is highly toxic to fleas and other insects as well. A dog will be free from fleas in just a couple of days.

Ingredients are: imidacloprid -- a chloronicotinyl nitroguanidine integrated from the nitromethylene class of a compound. This joins the nicotinyl receptor sites of insects, thus upsetting normal nerve transmission which causes death.

A set of two vials costs 15-20 dollars.

Frontline. This product is very similar to Advantage, but is not water soluble, so alcohol is needed to wash it off. This can safely be used in pups, dogs, cats and kittens.

Two Ways to Administer Liquid Medication to Your Dog

There are 2 effective methods for getting any form of liquid medication down your dog’s throat: Make a pouch or pry the mouth open.

1. Making a pouch: Using one hand, pull out the corner of the dog’s lower lip to make a little pouch. Keep his head slightly tilted back and pour the liquid into the mouth using your other hand.

In some instances, the medication does not go in right away. This occurs when the dog’s teeth are clenched too tightly. When this happens, gently pry his mouth open using your fingers. If the dog tries to move away, position his rear end in a corner so he will not be able to back away from you. You can also get another person to help you hold the dog during the process.

Another way of doing this method is to sit on the floor or a bed with the dog between your legs. Position his rear end toward you with his head facing away. This way, you can keep him positioned more easily. As soon as you have the liquid medicine in, induce swallowing by carefully and gently holding the dog’s mouth almost closed and lightly massage his throat. You can tell that he has swallowed the medication when his tongue emerges briefly from between the front teeth. You can also make him swallow the liquid by briefly and gently putting your thumb over his nostrils.

2. Prying the mouth open: Gently grasp the dog’s upper jaw using one hand and insert your thumb and fingers in the gaps just behind the fangs. For a tiny dog, just one finger is necessary along with the thumb. Most dogs will then relax their mouths a little so that you can easily pour the liquid with a dropper or a spoon between his front teeth. Make sure that his head is tilted back so that the liquid does not run down his throat.

How to administer capsules and pills

When giving a dog solid medication such as capsules or vitamin pills, open his mouth by grasping around his upper jaw, just like what you would do for liquid medications. Hold the capsule or pill either between your thumb and the first finger or between the first and second fingers. Use the remaining fingers to press down the lower front teeth to pry the jaw open.

Once you have managed to open his mouth, put the medication into the throat and push it as far back as you can. Induce swallowing the same as you would when giving liquid medication. This method may seem awkward and difficult at first. But after a few tries, you will get more experienced and find it much easier and effortless.

The Danger Of A Jealous Dog

In the case of jealousy the mind of a dog works in almost an identical way to that of a human being. It wants the full attention and love of its owner whether the jealousy occurs only when another dog enters the home or when the beloved owner talks to another dog outside, or whether the jealousy is aimed at another person in the home. The same driving force is at the root of the evil in all of these cases: the intention of the dog to reign alone and supreme in his household.

The guarding instinct so prevalent in some breeds has its roots in the same sort of thing; a desire to let no one enter the precincts of his master or mistress. Jealousy nearly always takes the form of a show of viciousness toward the dog or person the animal is jealous of. Quite often it is a mild form of jealousy and only involves its bone, toy or the piece of rug that it is fond of. It jealously guards them and woe betide anyone trying to take that object away.

This jealousy is particularly pronounced when puppies are reared and kept in the household. As the puppy reaches the age of about three months the mother will begin to feel jealous as her maternal instinct fades and the time draws near for another heat. In spite of the attempt to treat both dogs equally and always to talk to both at the same time, feeding both at the same time and exercising both together, the jealousy continues to grow.

Correction works at first and then bit by bit grows less effective. In the dog's mind a usurper has entered the scene, and, as in the wild state, it is trying to turn the young out of the nest. As she fails to get rid of the now grown up pup, her temper gets worse and worse in the effort to dislodge the now adult and unwanted member of the household. She becomes more and more thwarted as her owner attempts to make the newcomer as welcome as the old established member. Often she will turn on her owner when he is trying to make peace, as if she were trying to impress an ignorant person that it was time the youngster went out into the world to fend for itself.

If you are a really good handler your training methods will be good enough to make both dogs obey the command "Leave" when they are in your presence. The danger lies in the times you leave the dogs together on their own, for the slightest boldness on the part of the youngster in approaching the older one's basket or toy, etc., will infuriate the older dog, and she will set on the youngster tooth and nail.

Dog Supplements May Not Be Necessary After All

If you use a good quality meat-meal based food you usually do not have to supplement your dog's ration. In fact, it is very easy to throw the formulation of some of the specialty foods out of kilter if you play with supplements. Unfortunately, adding a little bit of this and a little bit of that is a cultural mentality handed down from the time when pet foods weren't complete and needed supplementation. Breeders often advocate supplements and many send their clients home with long lists of additives - vitamins, minerals, dairy products, oils and other lotions and potions. Many breeders will turn an absolutely deaf ear to entreaties from veterinarians or canine nutritionists who suggest a good basic ration and a minimum of supplementation.

Supplement supporters aren't usually thinking along behavioral lines and, since they themselves rarely have difficulty house-training their dogs, don't realize that not everyone is so knowledgeable and over-supplementation can easily produce loose stools and make good control difficult for the dog. Coat conditioners, for instance, can easily be withheld from the diet until the puppy is house-trained. The puppy doesn't need them if he or she is eating a good quality food, and (in most breeds) the puppy coat has to grow out naturally anyway. Oils and people foods, especially those high in fat (like steak trimmings) easily "oil up" the intestines and in many cases cause stools to "slide out" quite unexpectedly.

If your breeder or pet store operator gives you a list of supplements and binds you under pain of mortal sin to use them, start asking some questions. Ask whether these supplements are necessary if you use a high-quality specialty food. Ask how these supplements will affect your house-training progress. Ask if it is absolutely necessary to add the supplements right away or if this can wait until house-training is accomplished. For instance, although the jury is definitely out on the relationship between mega doses of vitamin C and hip dysplasia (a congenital ailment that plagues many larger breeds), many breeders are routinely recommending giving the vitamin. Whether or not the vitamin helps ward off hip dysplasia, we do know that it can have a diarrheaic effect on many dogs, complicating the house-training process.

Dairy products are also dangerous additives and produce runny stools in some dogs. People food should be avoided as a matter of good behavioral policy, lest the dog turn to begging at the table, but it should be especially taboo during house-training. Dog treats that are full of preservatives or dyes (often to keep a "meat center" bright red) can also throw many dogs' innards for a loop and complicate cleanliness. Good general advice is to stay away from supplements during the house-training process and use only minimal or no additives later on, but do use a quality daily ration.

Death Of Your Dog: Know What To Expect

There are certain things concerning death with which every dog owner should be acquainted. Many practical considerations must be evaluated and alternatives discussed with your mate, simply as part of owning a dog. Death should not be scratching at your door before you begin to ponder reasonable alternatives in dealing with the eventuality of your dog's death.

Death is not to be feared nor to be looked upon as repulsive. Dogs that die simply go to sleep permanently. They look, to the average person, as if they are simply asleep. Death does not turn your dog into a hideous caricature. Your beautiful dog does not begin to decompose before your eyes, nor does he immediately discharge a repulsive odor. So you should have no fear in sharing this experience with the children if your dog dies in the house.

Many older dogs die in their sleep, at night, when the body is at its lowest ebb. In such cases, you may just wake up in the morning and find him peacefully asleep without heartbeat or movement in his chest. His eyes may be closed or they may be open. If they are open, you will observe a glassiness or glaze to the eyeball. You will be able to tap the surface of the eye gently without receiving any response. That is one very accurate way of telling if death has come. Should you elicit no response, no blinking, no movement in the eyeball, then, for his sense of dignity, close the eyes. You can lift up his jowls and examine the gums. If they are white and lifeless, the blood has ceased pumping vital oxygen throughout his body. You can also examine the chest for movement and for heartbeat.

When a dog is asleep, you can always notice some lung expansion as he inhales and exhales rhythmically. When he has ceased to breathe, there will be no heartbeat and no chest expansion. Certain muscles may twitch slightly, even after death, but this is only the remnants of electrical energy reacting in his muscles and nerve complexes and, unfortunately not a sign that he is still alive. It may seem to you slightly indelicate in your extremely distraught state, to be required to check your dog's vital life signs, such as the eyes, gums, chest, and heartbeat. But, if you do this and find that your dog is still alive, you will be saving precious time. Upon contacting your vet immediately, you will also make it easier for him to tell you what to do. You may have a chance to save the dog's life.

When animals (or humans) die, they lose control of their excretory functions. This is another sign of death, although animals under anesthesia can also display loss of control of excretory functions. Should you come upon your dog in the morning and, having established that he is dead, notice that he has urinated and defecated involuntarily during the night, don't be shocked. Clean it up as best you can and place him on a clean surface: a blanket preferably, which you can also cover him with. You are not going to keep the dog warm with the blanket, for his thermal sensitivity has left him. Yet there must be a dignity in death as well as in life. If your dog is nearing the end and he is home with you, put him on a blanket. If it becomes soiled, simply change blankets. You can use the blanket to carry him to the vet when the end does arrive.

Possible Origins of Aggression Within Dogs

Aggressive temperaments in canines are usually the result of both genetics and the environment. A dog's environment can trigger aggressive behavior, particularly if he has a propensity toward aggression. For instance, people often blame a dog's aggression on being abused or teased by children. Fortunately, a dog's environment can be modified to protect him from abuse and teasing.

You can and should insulate the dog's space from negative interactions and incidents that might prompt aggression you cannot control. A chain link fence does not adequately protect the dog when the owner is at work or away because individuals or poorly supervised children may have access to him through the fence. Leaving the dog inside the house or constructing a double fence or a run far from the street fence are safer solutions. Protecting a dog from the environment is his owner's responsibility.

Aggression may also be the result of an injury. An injured dog may not understand the origin of the pain. As a result, he may snap at any object, including a helpful hand, that approaches the injured site. In cases of extreme pain, the dog may even lunge at anyone walking close. No matter how gentle a dog's temperament is under normal circumstances, take precautions such as using professional handling gloves, a muzzle, or at the least, wrap cloth around your hands before touching an injured dog.

Females with litters will often exhibit aggressive behavior around their puppies. Aggression associated with protecting the young is a natural behavior, and correcting the bitch may produce unnecessary negative interactions. The majority of bitches will allow trusted individuals to handle their puppies. Take time to gain the trust of the bitch before attempting to handle her puppies. Many bites are the result of an unsuspecting passerby or visitor invading the dog's perceived territory. No one should walk into another person's (dog's) yard or house uninvited, and certainly the house or yard should not be left open for people to enter.

High fences can prevent children from scaling them to retrieve lost balls, and security locks on gates are good deterrents for the average person. Even the mildest mannered dog may feel threatened by people walking in or invading his territory, especially when no one is home. Then again, there may be no apparent provocation for the dog to bite. This type of attack is known as rage syndrome or idiopathic aggression, and it is very dangerous. When a dog bites for no apparent reason, the victim is least able to avoid the bite. There may be no cues to indicate an impending attack. This type of aggression has been associated with a few specific breeds, but there have been reports of unprovoked attacks in many breeds.

Dog Adoption: Shopping For A Shelter

You wouldn't adopt a dog from just anyone, would you? Of course not. You want to feel as though you're adopting your pup from a loving foster home, not rescuing her from a wicked captor. So once you've decided to adopt a special pup, the next important step is finding the right shelter. Not all adoption facilities are created equal, and you'll do yourself and your dog a tremendous service by choosing one that will meet your needs both now and throughout your life together.

As you shelter shop, remember that you're looking for - a place with a knowledgeable and caring staff, a comfortable physical setting for its animals and sensible policies and services to help make the adoption process smooth for adopters and dogs alike. It doesn't have to be huge, palatial or wealthy; it just has to do its job thoroughly and conscientiously. Chances are, there's a place like that not far from you. But remember, too, that great dog companions can turn up where you least expect them, so even if you don't find the perfect shelter in your area, that's no reason to give up your dreams of adoption.

What's the difference between a private shelter and a Humane Society, or an SPCA and a pound? The distinctions aren't always crystal-clear, and distinguishing among the different kinds of adoption facilities can get confusing. But in general, shelters, Humane Societies and SPCAs (Societies for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) are organizations dedicated to the rescuing and adopting of homeless animals, whereas "pounds" are municipally run animal control facilities that offer few or no adoption-oriented services.

Most shelters, Humane Societies, and SPCAs are privately operated, self-supported and independent; they care for and adopt abandoned animals and are often involved in humane education and litigation as well. Pounds, on the other hand, are usually operated under the auspices of a city or county government for the purpose of controlling stray animals. But that's not always the case, so you can find out exactly who operates the shelters you visit.

Clearly, some pounds and shelters are better than others. Many facilities really accommodate their residents and work hard to adopt them to good people; some other facilities don't meet their dogs' needs and don't do what it takes to find them homes. Unless you're an experienced dog person and know exactly what you're doing, you'll probably be better off shopping around until you find a shelter or pound that's clean, comfortable, and staffed by interested, knowledgeable people. They'll give you the support and services you need to adopt the right pup and make her transition into your home as smooth as possible.

Dogs In Animal Shelters

Anyone who has worked longer than two seconds at an animal shelter knows that one of the chief reasons owners drop off their unwanted pets is that they are not house-trained. Shelter
personnel tend to be very world-wise and savvy, and they know that when an owner comes in and says, "We have to move," that usually means "He poops or barks or chews or digs” or whatever verb is appropriate. Shelter personnel often hear phrases like, "He's not as clean as I thought he would be, but I'm sure he would be for someone else," or "He might have a few accidents in his new home but he's really a sweetheart."

All these statements mean that the dog is not housebroken and the owners who adopt should be so informed. There should be a form that is used within each shelter to decode such problems and animals that cannot be placed and that harbor such problems might simply have to be moved up on the list of animals to be euthanized.

Before you disagree, let me say that I have paid my dues in shelter work. I have seen the pain that is involved on both the human and canine end (no matter how benign the euthanizing method) when a dog must be eliminated. I do not like the procedure nor the phenomenon.

It is crucial to get the puppy house-trained quickly and effectively, and of providing proper training throughout the dog's life. There is a large surplus of animals waiting for homes. Why place a dog that is known to be a chronic house-pooper? It just doesn't make sense, unless the dog has other appealing qualities and a potential owner who is fully aware of the problem and willing to work with it, patiently and consistently. Any other owner will sour on the dog quite quickly and either return it to the shelter or just abuse it.

Shelter personnel should also have on hand a variety of books, pamphlets and brochures that outline house-training procedures. Often clients will leave the shelter completely in the dark as to what to do once they get the puppy home, and will subsequently bungle the house-training process. A simple pamphlet or, better yet, a short consultation and a pamphlet at the shelter would have prevented many a returned puppy.

Dealing With Dogs That Hate Either Men or Women

Hating men or women is the most peculiar form of instability in dogs. They seem to be sweet and happy with one sex and nervous or vicious with the other. What form of neurosis causes this we don't know. What can an owner do to make a dog with this nature livable?

First, examine the owner's mind. Has he or she ever had a grudge against the opposite sex? Did an overpowering schoolteacher make the young boy's or girl's life a misery? Does he or she boast that they only get along with men or women? Alsatians are peculiar in this way and will hate men or women instinctively if thought transference comes from an owner with a similar dislike. Many women like big guard dogs, and the big guard dog thrives in this state of affairs and easily develops a dislike of the sex the owner wishes to dominate.

Corgis do the same. This has been particularly noted in these two breeds, partly because they are highly intelligent breeds and telepathy is very marked and partly because the shepherding instinct is uppermost and they have a natural suspicion of strangers. Correct them firmly when young and one gets no further trouble. Accept their suspicious natures, and you will have dogs that hate men or women, usually women.

Now how do we live with such dogs? The world being what it is, we can't mix with only one sex. Even husbands or wives are a necessity, and it is often against the one or the other that the particular hate is centered. I think the solution is either to send the dog to be boarded or trained by a person of the sex it hates, or else get friends of that sex to feed it or take it for walks. If it shows any signs of being vicious, muzzle it and send it out for a long walk with the person it dislikes. Greet joyously that person when he or she returns and praise the dog. Make the person pat the dog and praise it before saying goodbye and, if possible, give it its food.

Of course there aren't many good friends who will do this, but I think that if an advertisement was put in the local newspaper, some dog lover would respond. It might even help to employ a "dog sitter" of the hated sex when you go out so that when you are out, the only comfort the dog would get would be from the sex it dislikes.

Only by being made to tolerate people will it respond. Obviously, if a female owner has been jilted and hates all men, her dog will naturally pick up this feeling when the owner is talking to a man. In many cases, all these faults in dogs can be traced to some minor mental disturbance of the owner, although the owner may be unaware of it.

Do Dogs Have Emotions?

Trying to determine if your dog is experiencing anger, love, or any other "human" emotion is difficult. To date, no one has been able to provide convincing scientific evidence that we can distinguish one emotion from another by what our brains or hormones do. We obviously feel differently when we're in a loving versus an angry mood; however, what our brain does to influence us to feel those very different emotions is less clear.

Nonetheless, we believe that our pets love us, they appear to be embarrassed when we dress them up in silly clothes, and they certainly look like they're feeling guilty after doing something wrong.” But do they know right from wrong, and when they do the wrong thing, do they really feel guilty?

What would it take for us to be convinced that our pet actually experiences a specific emotion? Is it possible that his appearance, the way he looks in his body language and behavior, leads us to confuse guilt with submissive, defensive behavior? Do we think that he's experiencing guilt from the way he looks or from the situation that seems to call for guilt? Do we think that our dog actually feels emotions such as guilt, love, shame, hope, pride, relief, regret, or revenge? It's an interesting question, and behaviorists are still working on it. But let's look at it in terms of revenge.

When we think of getting revenge against someone who has "done us wrong," we think of doing something to get back at the person. We decide on the appropriate revenge by imagining how it would make the person feel to have such-and-such happen to him. If we think it would really make him feel bad, and it would get back at him in an appropriate way, it makes us feel good, even if we just imagine it. We don't actually need to get revenge, we just need to imagine his reaction if he were to get what he deserves.

Your dog probably doesn't have the ability to imagine how you would feel if he were to soil your bed as revenge for leaving him alone all weekend. And he probably wouldn't chew your favorite shoes as revenge for locking him in the bedroom and keeping him from enjoying that piece of chicken you had last night. The ability to look into another's psyche to imagine one's emotional response to a planned endeavor is what behaviorists call revenge. Revenge requires a "theory of mind" that dogs do not have.

Dogs see the world from their perspective. That's why arranging their daily lives from their point of view works so well. Not only would it seem strange to understand why you won't give him a dog biscuit before dinner because it would spoil his appetite, but it would seem even more strange if he is seen planning something later that evening to make you feel bad in some way for your stinginess. Yet we often find ourselves believing that this is exactly what our pet must have done when we discover that he's chewed our best shoes. In reality, our pet's behavior is probably caused by a disruption of his routine, an increased arousal or excitement, or a way to relieve discomfort or frustration.

Now that you understand your dog's emotions, you can go about changing them to create a mood that is incompatible with the mood that drives his misbehavior. The concept is called the principle of competing motivations: A dog cannot be angry, fearful, or depressed and happy or exited at the same time!

10 Dog Barking Moments & What Your Dog Is Trying To Say

1. Continuous rapid barking, mid range pitch: "Call the pack! There is a potential problem! Someone is coming into our territory!" Continuous barking but a bit slower and pitched lower: "The intruder [or danger] is very close. Get ready to defend yourself!"

2. Barking in rapid strings of three or four with pauses in between, mid range pitch: "I suspect that there may be a problem or an intruder near our territory. I think that the leader of the pack should look into it."

3. Prolonged or incessant barking, with moderate to long intervals between each utterance: "Is there anybody there? I'm lonely and need companionship." This is most often the response to confinement or being left alone for long periods of time.

4. One or two sharp short barks, mid range pitch: "Hello there!" This is the most typical greeting sound.

5. Single sharp short bark, lower mid range pitch: "Stop that!" This is often given by a mother dog when disciplining her puppies but may also indicate annoyance in any dog, such as when disturbed from sleep or if hair is pulled during grooming and so forth.

6. Single sharp short bark, higher mid range: "What's this?" or "Huh?" This is a startled or surprised sound. If it is repeated two or three times its meaning changes to "Come look at this!" alerting the pack to a novel event. This same type of bark, but not quite as short and
sharp, is used to mean "Come here!" Many dogs will use this kind of bark at the door to indicate that they want to go out. Lowering the pitch to a relaxed mid range means "Terrific!" or some other similar expletive, such as "Oh, great!" My cairn terrier, for example, who loves to jump, will give this single bark of joy when sent over the high jump. Other dogs give this same bark when given their food dish.

7. Single yelp or very short high-pitched bark: "Ouch!" This is in response to a sudden, unexpected pain.

8. Series of yelps: "I'm hurting!" "I'm really scared" This is in response to severe fear and pain.

9. Stutter-bark, mid range pitch: If a dog's bark were spelled "ruff," the stutter-bark would be spelled "ar-ruff." It means "Let's play!" and is used to initiate playing behavior.

10. Rising bark: This is a bit hard to describe, although once you've heard it, it is unmistakable. It is usually a series of barks, each of which starts in the middle range but rises sharply in pitch - almost a bark-yelp, though not quite that high. It is a play bark, used during rough-and- tumble games, that shows excitement and translates as "This is fun!"

Did You Know That Your Dog Would Absolutely Love A Massage?

Every culture that allows domestic pets teaches its members ways to relate physically with those pets. In some countries, dogs live a dog's life, and are rarely held or petted. We've noticed that some German dogs that we import do not seem to like our "American" way of petting. After investigation with our German contacts, we have learned that Germans have a slightly different approach to their dogs. They pet and stroke them in a different way and in different places than do many Americans. In our culture, petting a dog is very important. Most people tend to pet dogs around the head and shoulder regions and stop there. Others literally trounce their dogs, pounding their sides and ruffling their fur.

Sometimes there is little method to the physical display. The dog is expected to "take it" whether or not it is the kind of physical affection it enjoys. Few dog owners stop to read their dog's needs and desires. A dog owner may find that the dog does not enjoy being petted - if by petting we mean rough jostling or pounding. Instead, like many humans, they greatly
enjoy a more extended type of body contact - a kind of massage.

Massage can be a beneficial technique when used as an aid to relaxation. The first principle of dog massage is to stop thinking of your dog solely from the shoulders up. Contact can be made with almost any part of the dog's body if it is sensitive contact. Skilled veterinarians know this from treating unapproachable patients. They often have to devise creative ways of lifting the animal up onto an examination table, or treating injuries all over a pet's body.

To begin a dog massage, make a list of all the areas where a given dog likes body contact. If you are the dog's owner, you know. If you are not, ask the owner. Then list the areas where
the dog is sensitive to touch. Begin your first massage with the areas on your first list, but include one area on the second. Gradually include more "forbidden" areas as you give massages.

It's best to begin on the head, gently massaging the eyelids, muzzle, and nose. Always keep one hand in contact with the dog during the entire massage. It's best to have the dog in the sitting position. From the head area, work down the neck to the chest and pectoral muscle. Some dogs will automatically offer a paw. Take hold of it, but gently place it down if the dog seems to be losing balance.

Choose a leg and work up and down on it very gently. If your dog decides to lie down, you will have better access to its rear legs. Try to avoid forcing the dog down. If your dog knows the command for down, you can use it in massage work, but don't force the issue. Make your
strokes long and firm. Try to distinguish massage from regular petting. The massage should be more extended and pliable in its movement than regular petting. Avoid all slapping, pinching, and pulling motions. These will break the mood of the massage. Many dogs will communicate quite clearly what they like and dislike.

How Dogs Use Their Tails As Signals & Gestures: Part 2

Tail position is an important indicator of social standing and mental state of a dog. There will be some variations, of course, depending upon the natural tail position of the dog: a West Highland white terrier will carry its carrot-shaped tail higher than a golden retriever its flowing, feathery tail, and a greyhound's relaxed tail position is lower yet.

Almost horizontal, pointing away from the dog but not stiff: This is a sign of attention. It roughly translates as "Something interesting may be happening here."

Straight out horizontally, pointing away from the dog: This is part of an initial challenge when meeting a stranger or an intruder. It roughly translates as "Let's establish who's boss here."

Tail up, between the horizontal and vertical position: This is the sign of a dominant dog, or one who is asserting dominance, and translates as "I'm boss here."

Tail up and slightly curved over the back: "I'm top dog," this says. It is the expression of a confident, dominant dog who feels in control.

Tail held lower than the horizontal but still some distance from the legs: "I'm relaxed." "All is well."

Tail down, near hind legs: This changes its meaning with the posture of the dog. If the legs are still straight and the tail slightly brushes back and forth, it means "I'm not feeling well" or "I'm a bit depressed." If the legs are slightly bent inward, giving a slight downward slope to the back it means "I'm feeling a bit insecure," especially in an unknown setting or situation.

Tail tucked between the legs: "I'm frightened!" or "Don't hurt me!" This is especially common in the presence of a dominant dog or person, when it can also mean, "I accept my lowly role in the pack, and I'm not trying to challenge you.

Bristling hair down the tail: The bristle in the dog's tail is a sign of aggression. It may modify any tail position. Thus, with the straight out it means "I'm ready to fight if you are!" and with the tail slightly up or over the back it means "I'm not afraid of you and will fight to prove
I'm boss."

Crick or sharp bend in the tail when held high: This is more characteristic of the dogs that look like wolves, such as the German shepherds, and means much the same as the tail bristling. It is the precursor to possible aggression.

Broad tail wag: "I like you." This is often shown during play,

Establishing A Healthy Relationship With Your New Puppy

When you bring your new puppy home, you'll want to make him feel good while he's lying down or on his back. Give him a little stroke or an encouraging word. But don't overdo it. If you make the pup stay in that posture and he stays there, it teaches him a lesson both in submission and in dominance. That may seem okay. But the problem is that the dog also learns confrontation, not just with other dogs but also with people.

Dogs can be taught to be compliant without using force and confrontation. Do not shake him by the scruff of the neck and pin him to the ground, even though that's what wolves occasionally do to establish dominance. No matter how many times you've been told that you are the alpha animal, the fact is that people-dog relationships are not like wolf-wolf relationships. Dogs' teeth can inflict more damage than people's hands, so the wise thing to do here is not to start the confrontation.

Instead, start out with a companion-animal relationship where there's mutual respect for each other's roles (yours is to communicate direction, his' is to respond appropriately). Your dog will try to please you and be compliant, and you will praise him for doing so.

This is the kind of relationship you want to start as soon as you bring the puppy home, even before you take him to puppy kindergarten or hire a trainer to get him under control. Don't physically force your new pet to do things that he's not ready to do. Let him get used to one room at a time. Make sure that you keep track of when he is getting overly excited. This is your cue to say to him, "Settle!" or "Outside!" The word or phrase you use is up to you.

Try to go out the same door each time for the same activity. You will need to take him outside and stand there while he sniffs around and pees or poops, and you say, "Good Boy" then go indoors and play with him in a different location, so that he gets the idea that when we go to this one spot it's time to pee or poop, and when we go out a different door to another spot, that's where we play.

As you start to teach your dog good house-training techniques, you will also want to put him on a regular pattern of eating, usually three times a day at first. Occasionally, a pup will not seem too interested in eating. Besides finding out what he was eating when you acquired him, and offering him tidbits of chicken and beef from your fingers to whet his appetite, puppies like some company when they go to the food bowl. So if there is a litter-mate or a neighborhood puppy about the same age as yours who would like a dinner date, let them eat side by side a few times in the location you've chosen for daily feeding.

The idea is to make him comfortable and get him into a routine of regular eating, sleeping, elimination, and walking. Make sure that you don't do unpleasant things with your hands. Don't let your puppy start to chew or nibble on your fingers or hands. Even if the nibbling doesn't hurt now, it will hurt when he gets older and can lead to a bad habit that's difficult to break. Very soon, you'll be getting to know your new pet very well.

Using Caution When Dealing With Fighting Problems

What is in the dog's mind when it attacks every dog it meets or just has one enemy around the corner? Most of it is show of strength, very often a cowardly show of strength aimed at other people's toy dogs who can't answer a bully back. Face that same bully with a big dog likely to answer back and it will disappear into the distance, for the dog knows who will be boss even in its own race, and if it senses superiority of physique or brain, it will automatically be subservient.

That is why young dogs lie on their backs, all four feet in the air, when they meet an older or stronger dog; they know who is boss and are showing the other dog so by exposing the tummy to an enemy. That is why dog owners should know that this trick is not a nice one really and should be checked at an early age, for it is purely one of a weak animal giving in to one stronger in mind and usually an enemy at that.

Few owners would like to think their dogs look upon them as enemies, but that is the case. When a dog no longer looks upon you as a potential enemy it stops this lying on its back as protection, although many dogs in later life do it because their owners have scratched their chests, which they like, and they hope for it again. But primarily it belongs to the defense mechanism of the dog tribe. The mind of a dog that fights always has at the back of it the wish to be the boss of the tribe, and he fights other male dogs who are sexually mature to make sure there is no risk of his being questioned as "lord of all he surveys." Muzzle that dog and let him loose with the dog he has previously fought and nine times out of ten he will realize he is at a disadvantage and show no signs of aggression.

That is why dogs with fighting problems should be muzzled and then freed with trained dogs or non-fighters. They then learn to enjoy themselves in a community and the wish to fight goes away. Often, having muzzled, introduced and trained them for a short time together, formerly bad fighters are lying side by side without muzzles after a few minutes.

Your own personality needs to be strong to deal with fighters, because fighters are usually adult dogs. Few puppies fight, few females fight; therefore your mind must be stronger than that of the potential fighter so that you are the boss, not either of the dogs. If the dog is sex-mad you can do nothing but neuter it. Muzzling is only a stopgap, not a cure. Owners who won't have their fighting dogs neutered should always have them muzzled in public places.

The Most Intelligent Poodle

The Poodle is commonly acknowledged to be the most wisely intelligent of all members of the canine race. There is a general belief that he is a fop, whose time is largely occupied in personal embellishment, and that he requires a great deal of individual attention in the matter of his toilet. It may be true that to keep him in exhibition order and perfect cleanliness his owner has need to devote more consideration to him than is necessary in the case of many breeds; but in other respects he gives very little trouble, and all who are attached to him are consistent in their opinion that there is no dog so intensely interesting and responsive as a companion. His qualities of mind and his acute powers of reasoning are indeed so great that there is something almost human in his attractiveness and his devotion. His aptitude in learning is never denied, and many are the stories told of his marvellous talent and versatility.

Not merely as a showman's dog has he distinguished himself. He is something more than a mountebank of the booths, trained to walk the tight rope and stand on his head. He is an adept at performing tricks, but it is his alertness of brain that places him apart from other animals.

The profuse and long coat of this dog has the peculiarity that if not kept constantly brushed out it twists up into little cords which increase in length as the new hair grows and clings about it. The unshed old hair and the new growth entwined together thus become distinct rope-like cords. Eventually, if these cords are not cut short, or accidentally torn off, they drag along the ground, and so prevent the poor animal from moving with any degree of comfort or freedom.

Corded Poodles are very showy, and from the remarkable appearance of the coat, attract a great deal of public attention when exhibited at shows; but they have lost popularity among most fanciers, and have become few in number owing to the obvious fact that it is impossible to make pets of them or keep them in the house. The reason of this is that the coat must, from time to time, be oiled in order to keep the cords supple and prevent them from snapping, and, of course, as their coats cannot be brushed, the only way of keeping the dog clean is to wash him, which with a corded Poodle is a lengthy and laborious process. Further, the coat takes hours to dry, and unless the newly washed dog be kept in a warm room he is very liable to catch cold. The result is, that the coats of corded Poodles are almost invariably dirty, and somewhat smelly.

Poodle's General appearance
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Head: Long, straight, and fine, the skull not broad, with a slight peak at the back.

Muzzle: Long (but not snipy) and strong not full in cheek; teeth white, strong, and level; gums black, lips black and not showing lippiness.

Eyes: Almond shaped, very dark, full of fire and intelligence.

Nose: Black and sharp.

Ears: The leather long and wide, low set on, hanging close to the face.

Neck: Well proportioned and strong, to admit of the head being carried high and with dignity.

Feet: Rather small, and of good shape, the toes well arched, pads thick and hard.

Legs: Fore-legs set straight from shoulder, with plenty of bone and muscle.

Hind-legs: Very muscular and well bent, with the hocks well let down.

Tail: Set on rather high, well carried, never curled or carried over back.

Coat: Very profuse, and of good hard texture; if corded, hanging in tight, even cords; if non-corded, very thick and strong, of even length, the curls close and thick, without knots or cords.

A General History of Dogs

There is no incongruity in the idea that in the very earliest period of man's habitation of this world he made a friend and companion of some sort of aboriginal representative of our modern dog, and that in return for its aid in protecting him from wilder animals, and in guarding his sheep and goats, he gave it a share of his food, a corner in his dwelling, and grew to trust it and care for it. Probably the animal was originally little else than an unusually gentle jackal, or an ailing wolf driven by its companions from the wild marauding pack to seek shelter in alien surroundings. One can well conceive the possibility of the partnership beginning in the circumstance of some helpless whelps being brought home by the early hunters to be tended and reared by the women and children. Dogs introduced into the home as playthings for the children would grow to regard themselves, and be regarded, as members of the family

In nearly all parts of the world traces of an indigenous dog family are found, the only exceptions being the West Indian Islands, Madagascar, the eastern islands of the Malayan Archipelago, New Zealand, and the Polynesian Islands, where there is no sign that any dog, wolf, or fox has existed as a true aboriginal animal. In the ancient Oriental lands, and generally among the early Mongolians, the dog remained savage and neglected for centuries, prowling in packs, gaunt and wolf-like, as it prowls today through the streets and under the walls of every Eastern city. No attempt was made to allure it into human companionship or to improve it into docility. It is not until we come to examine the records of the higher civilisations of Assyria and Egypt that we discover any distinct varieties of canine form.

The dog was not greatly appreciated in Palestine, and in both the Old and New Testaments it is commonly spoken of with scorn and contempt as an "unclean beast." Even the familiar reference to the Sheepdog in the Book of Job "But now they that are younger than I have me in derision, whose fathers I would have disdained to set with the dogs of my flock" is not without a suggestion of contempt, and it is significant that the only biblical allusion to the dog as a recognised companion of man occurs in the apocryphal Book of Tobit (v. 16), "So they went forth both, and the young man's dog with them."

The great multitude of different breeds of the dog and the vast differences in their size, points, and general appearance are facts which make it difficult to believe that they could have had a common ancestry. One thinks of the difference between the Mastiff and the Japanese Spaniel, the Deerhound and the fashionable Pomeranian, the St. Bernard and the Miniature Black and Tan Terrier, and is perplexed in contemplating the possibility of their having descended from a common progenitor. Yet the disparity is no greater than that between the Shire horse and the Shetland pony, the Shorthorn and the Kerry cattle, or the Patagonian and the Pygmy; and all dog breeders know how easy it is to produce a variety in type and size by studied selection.

In order properly to understand this question it is necessary first to consider the identity of structure in the wolf and the dog. This identity of structure may best be studied in a comparison of the osseous system, or skeletons, of the two animals, which so closely resemble each other that their transposition would not easily be detected.

The spine of the dog consists of seven vertebrae in the neck, thirteen in the back, seven in the loins, three sacral vertebrae, and twenty to twenty-two in the tail. In both the dog and the wolf there are thirteen pairs of ribs, nine true and four false. Each has forty-two teeth. They both have five front and four hind toes, while outwardly the common wolf has so much the appearance of a large, bare-boned dog, that a popular description of the one would serve for the other.

Nor are their habits different. The wolf's natural voice is a loud howl, but when confined with dogs he will learn to bark. Although he is carnivorous, he will also eat vegetables, and when sickly he will nibble grass. In the chase, a pack of wolves will divide into parties, one following the trail of the quarry, the other endeavouring to intercept its retreat, exercising a considerable amount of strategy, a trait which is exhibited by many of our sporting dogs and terriers when hunting in teams.

A further important point of resemblance between the Canis lupus and the Canis familiaris lies in the fact that the period of gestation in both species is sixty-three days. There are from three to nine cubs in a wolf's litter, and these are blind for twenty-one days. They are suckled for two months, but at the end of that time they are able to eat half-digested flesh disgorged for them by their dam or even their sire.

The native dogs of all regions approximate closely in size, coloration, form, and habit to the native wolf of those regions. Of this most important circumstance there are far too many instances to allow of its being looked upon as a mere coincidence. Sir John Richardson, writing in 1829, observed that "the resemblance between the North American wolves and the domestic dog of the Indians is so great that the size and strength of the wolf seems to be the only difference.

It has been suggested that the one incontrovertible argument against the lupine relationship of the dog is the fact that all domestic dogs bark, while all wild Canidae express their feelings only by howls. But the difficulty here is not so great as it seems, since we know that jackals, wild dogs, and wolf pups reared by bitches readily acquire the habit. On the other hand, domestic dogs allowed to run wild forget how to bark, while there are some which have not yet learned so to express themselves.

The presence or absence of the habit of barking cannot, then, be regarded as an argument in deciding the question concerning the origin of the dog. This stumbling block consequently disappears, leaving us in the position of agreeing with Darwin, whose final hypothesis was that "it is highly probable that the domestic dogs of the world have descended from two good species of wolf (C. lupus and C. latrans), and from two or three other doubtful species of wolves namely, the European, Indian, and North African forms; from at least one or two South American canine species; from several races or species of jackal; and perhaps from one or more extinct species"; and that the blood of these, in some cases mingled together, flows in the veins of our domestic breeds.